Killer. Tom Ford AW17

April 9, 2017April 9, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Although Tom Ford has resigned from the see-now buy-now business strategy, that doesn’t mean he feels dissapointed – his autumn-winter 2017 look-book is the best prove for that. Atrakhan scrotum bags, metallic square-toe heels, empowering fur coats, sequinned turtlenecks, multi-coloured tights, PVC jackets… those are the clothes to kill and to kill for. ‘Cocktail dress’ sounds pretentiously, but according to Ford it’s a timeless go-to piece for every evening event. Whether in black velvet and with over-sized shoulder-pads or as a kimono hybrid, the designer goes burning hot this season with lenghts and silhouettes.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Post-Apocalyptic. Dilara Findikoglu AW17

April 7, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Wether you’re thinking of a Bulgakovian witch sabbath at the top of the hill or of a medieval painting presenting hell full of sinners, Dilara Findikoglu‘s show-stopping garments certainly are for very bad, bad girls (and above all, for red-haired femme fatales à la the designer herself). For her autumn-winter 2017 collection, the Turkish designer went for anything that felt rebellious and bizarrely out-of-this-world at the same time. A tattered, worn-out-looking tartan coat held together by safety pins was a clear nod to punk; witchy symbolism and mystic illustrations present in embroideries covered Tudor-esque capes and semi-armors. Although Dilara has a soft spot for historic costumes – and especially their exaggerated silhouettes – she’s not interested in making glossy couture. Findikoglu rather sees her “new world order” clothes on a Marilyn Manson bride and bold characters, who are tempted by her truly unique aura. The models, transformed into fantastical female goddesses with horns and other charming oddities, looked as if they came out of a Hieronymus Bosch canvas. Exceptional.

Collage: Edward Kanarecki for Design & Culture by Ed. Images: Fernando Uceda / Lucie Rox / courtesy of Dilara Findikoglu.

Walk The Path. Louis Vuitton AW17

March 19, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

The last few days of Paris fashion week were rather unimpressive, and that’s a pity, as the season had many great moments. While Miu Miu was quite a joke, Nicolas Ghesquiere‘s collection for Louis Vuitton made me think of the designer’s past. His work at Balenciaga was unforgettable – the vision of future wardrobe, über-cool spontaneity, memorable shoes. His very first collections at Vuitton were incredible, too. But for the last few seasons, Ghesquiere seems to rest on his laurels: biker-girl gears, satin dresses, sporty knits. Same story of a “contemporary girl”. Maybe he didn’t want to introduce anything new this season? Designers slowly start to turn their heads towards being permanent in terms of fashion. But Nicolas’ autumn-winter 2017 collection wasn’t classic. It didn’t have a spark. Well, yes, it was presented at the Louvre. But shouldn’t the clothes be in the spotlight? Big, corporate brands like Louis Vuitton tend to put pressure on things like settings, handbags, etc., but it hurts to see how Ghesquiere’s bright talent begins to drown.

Too Edgy. Miu Miu AW17

March 19, 2017March 19, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Back in 2014, System Magazine asked Miuccia Prada to explain the differences between her main line and Miu Miu. According to the interview, designing at Miu Miu is much less complicated for Miuccia, whereas at Prada, it’s sometimes a struggle – the label is a synonym of ‘sophistication’, both for women’s and men’s fashion. Miu Miu’s soul is naive; spontaneous; immediate. For autumn-winter 2017, I didn’t get those three terms at Miu Miu. Edginess is definitely something that accompanied a Miu Miu girl throughout the years – but this season, it’s too much. Not that I don’t have a soft spot for purple faux-fur (especially when it’s used as a carpet) or fluffy hats. But I doubt that this overdose of 70s psychedelia and 30s technicolor does any good. Bold prints, over-sized collars, tiaras, geek boots: although all of them are Miu Miu signatures, this time they feel senseless combined together. In other words, the collection looks ridiculous. And surely incomparable to Prada collection (which was presented a few weeks ago in Milan), where the designer took us to another level of femininity.

1987. A.P.C. AW17

March 18, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

1987. The year A.P.C. was found by Jean Touitou. 2017 – the brand celebrates its 30th anniversary. 30 years of apparel clothing that actually defines the real nature of ready-to-wear. It’s often unclear why A.P.C. became one of the most beloved brands. “It’s boring“, one might say. So what? Their raw denim is well-cut. T-shirts last for years and make the customer satisfied. Trench coats and white shirts are ultimate essentials. A.P.C.’s branding is aesthetical perfection, just like the boutiques, music albums and candles. What’s best – although A.P.C. shows during Paris fashion week, it stays surprisingly affordable (and believe me, when the sale season starts, their Mitte store in Berlin – just like in another cities – becomes a treasure chest).

For autumn-winter 2017, as you might expect, the creative director decided to keep it classic. Anniversaries are no big deal! The clothes are the priority, so it’s quite guaranteed you will fall in love with every single piece. Fur jackets, maxi-dresses, even the thick socks. Oh, and denim! Really, wear it the you want. Over a coat, as a scarf, a lovely jumpsuit or simple jacket.