Icy Days. Sacai AW17

March 18, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

While watching Chitose Abe‘s Sacai latest outing, I had no doubts it was a proper, winter collection. While other designers go for mindless slip-dresses and flesh-exposing silhouttes, Abe layered, layered and again, layered. The duvet jacket with fur collar and colour inserts will be a perfect choice for freezier days. What’s more, Chitose shares tips on how to wear a) ankle-lenght dresses under voluminous outerwear and b) style denim midi-skirts when the temperature drops. The designer is a master in terms of textile combinations – I loved the way she mixed warm tweed with sheer, black silk in skirts and jackets. Brilliant!

Permanent. Céline AW17

March 17, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

For her autumn-winter 2017 fashion show, Phoebe Philo invited Philippe Parreno to create an abstract, fully rotating venue. The eclectic set was the ultimate sign of what to expect from Céline this season – contrasts. Philo has those moments in her career, when she goes extremely arty, and then, strictly minimal. This time, it was both – sharp masculine blazers and white crisp shirts were harmoniously balanced with incredibly big blankets carried by the models and rain-coats with map of Paris printed all over them. But it doesn’t matter whether we’re speaking of a classical, black coat, or long-sleeved dress in burgundy – it was all about comfort combined with a kind of elusive sensuality. Flowing, maxi-dresses and fringed skirts were worn by the models as if they weren’t on a fashion show, but on the street. Surprisingly, Philo went for something more simple in case of shoes, switching from the two-colour heels of the last season. Semi-cowboy boots, ballet pumps, flats, all in earthy tones. Just like the bags, which will carry anything. Those clothes are permanent: they are here to serve for years.

Céline

Eerie Chic. Balenciaga AW17

March 15, 2017March 15, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Cristobal Balenciaga’s couture in today’s world – that’s what Demna Gvasalia‘s thought about for this season. His third, womenswear show for Balenciaga was the most literal nod towards the maison’s founder up to date, as it ended with voluminous, ball gowns. But they wouldn’t be Demna, if they weren’t at the proper level of peculiarity. One of them was a walking pile of feathers, styled with a bazaar bag (also covered in feathers, from the bottom to the top). Those colossal bags, instead of conventional clutches, were another clue that Gvasalia isn’t going straight haute couture path.

If talking of more wearable pieces, the Georgian designer went for something sensually chic – and this time, it was intriguingly elegant, no jokes. Femme fatale pencil skirts (made of haute car mats), over-sized sweaters, over-the-knee boots (last season’s spandex obsession continues) – it was sexy and eerie simultaneously. Although Demna has established his Balenciaga classics – the bags, duvet jackets, killer hills – and might already rest on his laurels, he thrives to develop a continuous language at the brand, every time with a new twist and new perspective.

Bourdin and Americana. Nina Ricci AW17

March 14, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

In Milan, we’ve got Jil Sander, where Rodolfo Paglialunga was trying, trying and finally successed in capturing the spirit of a label (unfortunately slightly too late, as he is said to be leaving the house) originally created by a woman with vision. Meanwhile in Paris, a similar situation was going on with Nina Ricci, where Guillaume Henry took his time to understand the brand’s rhythm and the founder’s codes. But autumn-winter 2017 is the clear evidence that he’s the right person behind Ricci, with fresh concepts and remarkable respect for the maison‘s aesthetic. His latest collection is brilliant, in every aspect. The make-up and pastel colour palette instantly reminded you of Guy Bourdin’s iconic Polaroids and visionary visuals. The clothes were femininely chic, but at the same time Wild West with all those over-sized belt buckles and flesh-exposing silhouettes. If you aren’t fully happy about the subtle nod to rodeo, Henry once again showed that he really can cut a great coat. And there’s a wide range to choose from.

Nina Ricci

Body. Comme Des Garçons AW17

March 13, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

First thoughts after seeing Rei Kawakubo‘s Comme Des Garçons collection for autumn-winter 2017 (written chronologically). Post-apocalyptic vision of Nicki Minaj’s / Kim Kardashian’ bodies. A Kawakubo human changes into an over-sized mushroom. Recycling is not only ecological; it’s artistic.

Rei’s collection is the new radical. Anti-fashion. Intepret it the way you want. But don’t think of it in terms of ‘clothes’, because these garments can’t be classified that way.