Draped Zone. Rick Owens AW16

March 6, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Continuing the Mastodon theme from his menswear collection, Rick Owens investigates his “uneasiness about environmental change” in the most elusive, and captivating way in his women’s show. And his response to climate problems, as he explained, is heading straight to his studio and drape. Drape, drape and drape – this word describes the clothes, which look eerie in their Dali-esque volumes, but surprisingly so soft that you want to touch them and wear them. Starting from the simpler white coats and dresses, the collection evolved in to something much more heavy – the duvet coats in chestnut-brown melted on the models’ bodies, while the velvet cape with a menthol green lining had this specific warmth which will appeal to many when the snows come. But the entire mystery behind the show was kept obscured under the surreal, fleecy cocoons, which to me, reminded bee-hives. By coincidence, Owens told the press during his menswear outing that his life-parter, Michele Lamy, kept a bee-hive at the rooftop of their home/office/boutique Palais Bourbon last summer, to help them survive the hottest summer of 2015.

Calm Fire. Paco Rabanne AW16

March 5, 2016March 5, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Julien Dossena revamped Paco Rabanne into a contemporary brand, which does spark desire. And if talking of sparks, the collection had one, or two – literally, leather patches of flames were embroidered on midi skirts and satin tops, looking hot and untamed. But the Rabanne women has a much gentler side, too, and you could easily guess that thanks to floral tapestry jackets and dresses. The fur-lined reverse-coat in beige looked cosmic with the outer-space white boots and the minimal cool white-tanktop-and-black-pants had an androgynous, yet appealing energy about it. Although Dossena’s collections remind me of Helmut Lang-era rather than Paco Rabanne’s times, one thing’s sure – the creative director attempts (with a large success) to envision the wardrobe of a modern-day woman, just like Rabanne did back in the days.

Anne – France Dautheville. Chloé AW16

March 5, 2016August 24, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Clare Waight Keller, the creative director behind Chloé, knows what women want, and what the love. With her favourite, laid-back signatures, Clare revived the spirit of a Frenchwoman, Anne-France Dautheville, who travelled across Europe and Middle East on her motorcycle in the 70s. One of the looks was basically a motocross combo of a jacket and a pair of pants, styled with off-duty biker boots. With ecru foulards tied around necks, the girls wore the best-selling, ruffled silk and lace dresses, while the opening look was a voluminous, travel-forward poncho,. You can write and write about the beauty of each look separately, but one of the most remarkable (and simple at the same time) was Frederikke Sofie’s grey knit dress with elongated sleeves and a seductive v-cut neckline, which appears nearly everywhere this season. Her long, blond curls and this dress perfectly convey the message of this collection – feel free, in your life and when you travel. And you don’t need to be that Glastonbury girl in Hunter wellies to be one of those care-free souls… put your sweatshirt and bohemian skirt on, and GO!

Les Amours Perdus. Lemaire AW16

March 5, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Christophe Lemaire‘s utterly French outing for his autumn-winter 2016 wasn’t just about models, who presented the clothes. The girls at Lemaire show glanced at the audience in a naturally captivating way – as if they weren’t models, but women who wear Christophe’s seductive dresses, felt wool pants and low-heeled shoes on daily basis. Lemaire isn’t the type of designer who changes his attitude season-to-seaon. The approach stays always the same, with just a few additions to the line. This season, the chic wardobe of his Parisian, intellectual female (supposedly his life-parter, Sarah-Linh Tran?) was expanded by cable-knits and blouses with Elizabethan sleeves. V-neck, black dresses were effortlessly styled with these nostalgic shirts, while the sophisticated all-black looks were contrasted by curcuma yellow shoulder bags and voluminous pantalons. Your clavicles will surely love the feminine satin top, and the outerwear lovers will have an affair with the shearling jacket. The delicate braids and simple, red lipstick are the lifelong companions of a Lemaire woman – just like the clothes she loves so much.

Pastel Velvet Wonderland. Rochas AW16

March 4, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Alessandro Dell’AcQua‘s woman and his Rochas collection is pure, pure sweetness for the eye. The wide range of pastel colours, from pink to green, looked feminine and non-chalant when styled with contrasting ankle socks. Floral-embroidered slip dresses looked chic and not so banal with the lace shirts under. Also, this collection was an ode to velvet, Dell AcQua’s current obsession – unexpectedly, it looked extremely soft and frivolous, when worn with green fur coats and the season’s must-have high platform pumps. I adore this collection – and I can openly confess that it’s my favourite Rochas outing delivered by Alessandro to date (and already two years passed from his appointment)!