Calm Fire. Paco Rabanne AW16

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Julien Dossena revamped Paco Rabanne into a contemporary brand, which does spark desire. And if talking of sparks, the collection had one, or two – literally, leather patches of flames were embroidered on midi skirts and satin tops, looking hot and untamed. But the Rabanne women has a much gentler side, too, and you could easily guess that thanks to floral tapestry jackets and dresses. The fur-lined reverse-coat in beige looked cosmic with the outer-space white boots and the minimal cool white-tanktop-and-black-pants had an androgynous, yet appealing energy about it. Although Dossena’s collections remind me of Helmut Lang-era rather than Paco Rabanne’s times, one thing’s sure – the creative director attempts (with a large success) to envision the wardrobe of a modern-day woman, just like Rabanne did back in the days.

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