Good Things. Rosie Assoulin AW16

February 17, 2016February 17, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Considering all the fresh names that appear during New York Fashion Week, not many enter the game with a purely unique vision, or even a mind-striking collection. Sometimes, it looks like a slightly modified Celine or The Row copy-and-paste method fits all the occasions, while the venue of the show or presentation is limited to a modestly furnished uptown loft (there are too many of those this season, too). But in case of Rosie Assoulin, one of the most prolific and talented millennials in the fashion industry, everything works in the other way – meaning – every step the designer takes is utterly her’s, and not of somebody else, and what’s the most important – she doesn’t lead her eponymous label onto a mainstream path (well, you may say that her jumpsuit appeared in Beyonce’s Formation video a week ago and that her gowns appear to win the celebrity’s hearts on the red carpets – but still, her creativity keeps to be offbeat).

The autumn-winter 2016 presentation was, honestly, the most beautiful of all the New York brands I’ve seen this season. Firstly, the place where Rosie showed her new collection felt like the perfect spot to show these joyous clothes – the diverse models walked around a wooden installation of colourful, burning candles, creating abstract wax veins on the concrete floors. The rawness of brick walls, the elegant, but kinda off-duty black piano filled the atmosphere with Assoulin’s presence.

Another asset that Rosie had this season was the intimacy her show held – the guests could discover the pieces on the models up and close. And what’s more, the clothes were really interesting, which sometimes is missed by other designers nowadays! Dark blue velvet-trimmed pajamas (and chokers), a lipstick red jumpsuit with a caped back, a one sleeve cable knit worn over a ruffled, beige skirt – the woman portrayed by Rosie deserves a wow on a party. And for those, who prefer something more everyday, the female designer who understands all aspects of a woman’s wardrobe presented some great, olive-green pants, breezy tops with sexy shoulder cut-outs and arty blousons. I’m not mentioning the coats, as they look perfect when styled with one of these cargo pants…

Rosie knows what’s good. Slay.

Playing with Textures. Thom Browne AW16

February 16, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

If talking of drama, Thom Browne is the master of it, always. Staged in a faux snowy, secret garden, the nearly-couture designer played with textures and clothes, creating exquisite garments. Sewing together suits, he has created abstract skirts which chaotically overlapped mink coats, while the men’s ties were twisted into hats by Browne’s long-time collaborator, Stephen Jones. The pleated, signature-grey dress had a sense of Victorian night-gown, which gave us all a little hint that the designer looks nostalgically back at the fashion history (take the tweeds, which revive to a great surprise Coco Chanel – even Karl Lagerfeld would love to show off a line-up of so beautiful blazers!). Definitely, this ready-to-wear collection has a very unwearable, theatrical mood about it – however, there are few pieces which will surely sell well at Dover Street Market next season.

Cognac Leather, Sheared Astrakhan. The Row AW16

February 16, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

The Row designers came back to New York this season for their down-to-earth presentation, making a statement that Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen believe from the very beginning of the brand. Reduce. But keep it luxurious and of the top notch quality. Sheared astrakhan, double-face cashmere, cognac leather… should I list more of these pure and rich textiles and materials used in this harmonious wardrobe of must-have essentials? Among the sleek silhouettes of 40’s coats and flattering, high-waisted pants, the “spotlight” (if the minimal aesthetics of the Olsen twins would ever use that excessive word) was stolen by the delicate slip dresses and sheer, lilac-grey gowns. The The Row women – Guinevere Van Seenus, Jamie Bochert and Kristen Owen, just to mention a few – look stern and sophisticated in their minimal looks – but surely feel the comfort and fleecy touch of their ecru turtlenecks.

Glory Box. Victoria Beckham AW16

February 15, 2016February 15, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Victoria Beckham‘s creative vision for her brand seems to evolve – just like her view on femininity. The autumn-winter 2016 collection was all about a very lady-like, yet contemporary woman – meaning a downtown personality in a loosely sculpted midi dress, wearing simple, patent-leather flats. Seems to be trivial – but it looks so effective, when worn with a graceful red lipstick. Also, it feels like Beckham is having a moment with her well-tailored coats. One is masculine and with double buttons, while the second one is all about a baggy, slightly slouchy look. However, both look like the must-have, seasonless statements of the designer’s winter outing. It’s getting better and better with every season, Victoria.

Natural Curiosity. Altuzarra AW16

February 14, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

After minimal spring-summer 2016, Joseph Altuzarra surprised everybody with his bohemian and much more risky autumn-winter outing. The designer openly confessed that he began imagining the new collection in his head after seeing the cult film Only Lovers Left Alive (to which I have referred while reviewing Rodarte’s last season and Haider Ackermann’s menswear) by Jim Jarmusch. The film, which had Tilda Swinton and Tom Hiddleston play romantic vampires, made Joseph think of their elusive and sometimes lethal curiosity. “They have very esoteric interests, and they live in a lush but isolated world. I wanted this show to be about trying different things not necessarily connected.” And indeed, Altuzarra is wildly mixing prints and textiles for the upcoming winter, which seems more than new for the brand. Paisley, leg-exposing skirts, embroidered red carpet gowns, tribal knits and bohemian dresses with oriental patterns feel bold and open-minded for different cultures.

For the Altuzarra fans, the signatures are here, too, but they were revamped with lovely embroideries and delicate floral applications – the femme-fatale silhouettes and tailoring is always on point in the designer’s collections, just like the nomadic outerwear. But what distinctly felt like a break-down from the super-sleek Altuzarra woman was the models’ hair – curls and afros looked natural and real. Note Alice Metza, Binx Walton and Imaan Hammam, please.