Considering all the fresh names that appear during New York Fashion Week, not many enter the game with a purely unique vision, or even a mind-striking collection. Sometimes, it looks like a slightly modified Celine or The Row copy-and-paste method fits all the occasions, while the venue of the show or presentation is limited to a modestly furnished uptown loft (there are too many of those this season, too). But in case of Rosie Assoulin, one of the most prolific and talented millennials in the fashion industry, everything works in the other way – meaning – every step the designer takes is utterly her’s, and not of somebody else, and what’s the most important – she doesn’t lead her eponymous label onto a mainstream path (well, you may say that her jumpsuit appeared in Beyonce’s Formation video a week ago and that her gowns appear to win the celebrity’s hearts on the red carpets – but still, her creativity keeps to be offbeat).
The autumn-winter 2016 presentation was, honestly, the most beautiful of all the New York brands I’ve seen this season. Firstly, the place where Rosie showed her new collection felt like the perfect spot to show these joyous clothes – the diverse models walked around a wooden installation of colourful, burning candles, creating abstract wax veins on the concrete floors. The rawness of brick walls, the elegant, but kinda off-duty black piano filled the atmosphere with Assoulin’s presence.
Another asset that Rosie had this season was the intimacy her show held – the guests could discover the pieces on the models up and close. And what’s more, the clothes were really interesting, which sometimes is missed by other designers nowadays! Dark blue velvet-trimmed pajamas (and chokers), a lipstick red jumpsuit with a caped back, a one sleeve cable knit worn over a ruffled, beige skirt – the woman portrayed by Rosie deserves a wow on a party. And for those, who prefer something more everyday, the female designer who understands all aspects of a woman’s wardrobe presented some great, olive-green pants, breezy tops with sexy shoulder cut-outs and arty blousons. I’m not mentioning the coats, as they look perfect when styled with one of these cargo pants…
Rosie knows what’s good. Slay.