Men’s – Back to Black. Bottega Veneta AW16

January 18, 2016January 18, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Tomas Maier, the creative director of Bottega Veneta, takes his man (and woman) to the darker side this season. But the colour of black had its function – Maier made it the leading colour of the show in order to present a contrast. “It’s about the silhouette. I felt it needed change. All the sportswear-inspired elements that we have been putting in: It’s time to move on. It’s becoming a trend, lots of people are doing that, I don’t need to do it forever.” Rather than reintepreting de luxe sweatpants, the collection was focused on the way the athletic, yet elegant clothes look on the body of both men and women. For guys, Bottega Veneta channeled a loose-fit chic, while girls looked soigné in their calfskin coats and relaxed skirts. Even though this collection is not a ground-breaking one, it feels like one of the best menswear outings by the designer up to date.

Poet’s Romance. Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini Pre-Fall’16

January 17, 2016February 1, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

I was appealed to Lorenzo Serafini‘s toned romance at Philosophy already in September – and this moody pre-fall 2016 lookbook wins my heart, even though the brand felt a bit sleepy to me in the past. Feminity, romance and lightness are the stylistic traits of the new creative director of the label, which was found by Alberta Ferretti back in 1984. Before his appointment, Stefano lead the womenswear at Dolce & Gabanna – however I can’t entirely believe in this by looking at those delicate and sensual clothes presented by the brand’s muses, Stella Lucia and Julia Jamin. Initially, the collection is about a masculine, slightly over-sized yet minimal suit – but then, Serafini keeps it more girly, introducing frivolous, lace dresses and crotchet tops. Also, the shearling coat selection is sharp – it seems like the season’s must-have piece will come from Philosophy.

Nature Force and Fiorucci. Valentino Pre-Fall’16

January 16, 2016January 22, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Valentino‘s pre-fall 2016 collection delivered by Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli feels too good to be just a pre-collection. It has about 85 looks, and each of them tells a different story. The first series of looks were all about a pictorial, vivid scenario of a volcanic eruption – meticulously embroidered mini-dresses were styled with refreshing floral maxi-skirts and electric, blue high-knee boots. The force of nature, which was embraced by the designers this season was continued in the most romantic way – using the traditional, Italian way of fur-painting, the mink coats were blooming with delicate, white flowers. The Astrakhan skirt with fluffy cotton-flowers was genius, too, when styled with a classy, soft knit. However, the collection had its other side – the aim was, to make it span the worlds. The inspiration, as Maria Grazia and Pierpaolo explained in the showroom set up in Andy Warhol’s Factory in New York, was Elio Fiorucci. The Italian designer, who died last year, was focusing his fashion on influences which came from everywhere. “He was local and global,” said Chiuri, “and we think that fits with the way we work.” Moreover, the designers were drawn to Fiorucci for the 70’s lifestyle he represented in fashion, and his joy of discovery. I must admit, it was really hard to choose only a few, representative looks from this beautiful collection – so here are my definite favourites.

And if you are not familiar with Fiorucci’s pre-Instagram fashion…

He was the first designer to dress Madonna.

His work was captured the essence of Italian opulence and New York’s Warholian energy.

Elio used to have the most provoking advertisements in the industry – sexuality was his favourite element to play with.

Kaleidoscopic Florence. Emilio Pucci Pre-Fall’16

January 14, 2016January 14, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Massimo Giorgetti’s playful vision at Emilio Pucci keeps getting better and better with each season. The pre-fall 2016 collection is his third for the Florence-based, heritage brand, and it already feels like he has been at the house for a prolific period of time – this young, Italian designer mixes the signature Emilio prints in such a care-free, yet vibrant way. Massimo focused on reinterpreting the Pucci codes in a contemporary, slightly humorous way. The silk pants and shirts in blue-feather prints; bold lips pattern, which made the pleated skirts look, oh yes, bellissimo. The skiwear roots were revamped this season and hopefully, it will again be a game-stopper on the Courchevel route – modern V-neck knits, “kaleidoscope” jackets and boldly coloured fur coats looked luxurious, but not too excessive. Forget the image of a fancy lady with a freezing dog on the slopes. One thing’s sure – Giorgetti and his team at Emilio Pucci are moving in the right direction, making the brand’s season-to-season outings feel unexpected, lifey and beautifully eclectic.

Raw Girl. Acne Studios Pre-Fall’16

January 13, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

The newest Acne Studios collection for pre-fall 2016 is a perfect set of looks, which defines the current fashion obsession – so the raw girl, who is wearing her favourite, yet slightly dilapidated knitted cardigan, cowboy boots from a Los Angeles thrift shop (Gilda Ambrosio style, of course) and a satin slip dress, but in a very party-hard way. The grunge edginess of this Parisian outing is softened with toned and warm autumn colours of curcuma and dove grey, while the focus on knitwear (this green, super-long scarf looks perfect for a lazy, September day) felt like a fresh gust of air for the brand. If talking of the textures, one of the coats is a real, one-of-a-kind piece – the tartan check has a kind of an arty, hybrid contrast on the waist-line. The contemporary usage of velvet as a bra-piece of a slip-dress looks both dramatic and flawless with a delicate shawl tied around the neck of the model. Jonny Johansson, this collection is a BOMB.