Ace & Jig is a brand which looks forward to artisanal threads and interesting textiles. For their AW15 collection, Cary and Jenna collaborated with Caroline Kaufman – bold, knitted scarves with pompons and chunky, fluffy cardigans were introduced, contrasting with delicate cottons. Also, over-sized skirts and coats appeared, creating a pilgrim-like mood, worn with these gorgeous hats. I am happy tis all-American label starts to have it’s signature style on fleek (yes, on FLEEK).
From Kiev Fashion Week, Anton Belinskiy seemed to be the biggest highlight. I truly loved the attitude his AW15 clothes had – they seemed to say “whatever” to everything, but in good sense. “Poor But Cool” knits and dresses clearly said, that everybody can wear a fur coat (in blush pink colour). The voluminous skirts and flared tops were constructed out of sporty, colourful textiles, which gave the whole collection a chilled, slightly edgy vibe.
I am so proud. It’s the first time a Polish designer is really in the spotlight in New York. It’s Piotrek Panzczyk and his Parsons MA partner, Beckett Fogg, which nurture their imaginary baby since 2013 – Area. And their AW15 collection which hit the web proves, that these two are up to something big. They have a specific way of synthesising their textiles and bringing their ideas to another dimension – abstract ideas of sister-hood which is visible on their mood-board; wool and lame mixed with some ultra modern resins and materials. The polished patent flares caught my eye, just like the sleek tops which make me think of reptile’s moist skin. Everything looks sharp and sculptural. Keep an eye for this couple… and visit this fresh area.
One word that describes Miu Miu for fall is “cute“. Floral jewellery; little toddler shirts; pastel-coloured coats and dresses. Slightly naive and at the same time sexy. Miuccia Prada brought within the collection some spectacular aligator coats and really eye-catchy tweed skirts which seem to land the must-have status. Prada decided to play with fake—something something which seem to be artificial. This wasn’t just a collection of animal prints and patterns, rich in embossed leopard print with perverse backless “pinafore” dresses with big cartoon buttons. Miuccia states – you can have any color you like as long as it isn’t natural.
“Instinct? I like that word,” said Miuccia Prada after her show. For indeed, like all designers, she is led by her internal instincts, and these were animal ones on exposure today. “I wanted to put things together in a naive way, not caring, always wrong, with that attitude of instinct. It started with the mutation of ostrich in Prada, the genetic modification, the idea of a new species.“
And this is how we end this very busy and buzzy fashion month… au revoir.
AW14 was about 70’s and the refreshed wardrobe. SS15 was looking at vintage florals and denim. AW15 is looking at the future, as Nicolas Ghesquiere stated after the Louis Vuitton show. And, it really did. Presented at the Louis Vuitton Foundation, Feja Beha walked down the runway in a fluffy, white shearling coat. Then, a very diverse model casting wore abstract peplum tops, satin suites with logo appliqued t-shirts and sexy lace “underwear” dresses.
Kept in ich colour palette, Ghesquiere’s conceptual take on winter wardrobe is über-interesting. The trousers seem to match everyhing just like the boldly coloured knits. I kind of love it.
Design & Culture by Ed 