Gabrielle’s Brasserie. Chanel AW15

0003-chanel

A vision of France from a stranger who thinks France is not that bad.” Karl Lagerfeld has grown increasingly tired of the cynical negativity, much of it from the French themselves. So, creating a Brasserie Gabrielle as a venue for Chanel’s AW15 show was the right idea – what cheers up a French as much as a good lunch with red wine? Well, only a new Chanel bag. But the space was too vast to communicate the charm of a real brasserie in Paris, even those as big as Balzar which is Lagerfeld’s favourite. Actually, it’s the first time when the usual, fabulously great concept for a Chanel show stumbled. But still, it felt nice.

If talking of the clothes, you know me. When there are 98 Chanel looks in one Chanel collection, I easily get bored. Why? Because they are all mostly the same. Boucle, tartan check, CC logo, pearls… all those Chanelised codes seem to sink in this big amount of clothes. And I always feel sad that quantity wins over the quality at Chanel shows. But the thing that surprised me were the shoes – or rather, one pair of shoes. Each model had the same pair of shoes! The classical, beige Coco pumps. I liked that. After all those ugly tweed sneakers and crystalized heels, a simple pair of beige pumps feels like a healthy detox.

0012-chanel

0017-chanel

0027-chanel

0054-chanel

0055-chanel

0096-chanel

Who’s Cybulski? Hermes AW15

01-hermes

That was a big moment for Hermes – the former designer assistant of The Row, Nadege Vanhee-Cybulski, showed her debutant collection for this historical French house. Strict suede silhouettes and sexy pencil skirts are out-standing while the way Nadege transformed silk scarves into leather bandanas is a highlight. Red and mustard were the key colours of this minimal and classical presentation – although the collection lacks the romanticism which was brought by Christophe Lemaire, the clean and sharp lines match the house codes too. It’s already a wonder what Cynulski’s going to do in the future for Hermes!

02-hermes

08-hermes

13-hermes

22-hermes

33-hermes

40-hermes

Fierce Victoriana. Givenchy AW15

_A2X0089

Rather than make-up, models wore jewellery at the Givenchy show. For AW15, Riccardo Tisci went classy Victoriana with blooms of sportwear – jacquard blazers, slim tank-tops and enchanting lace gowns made me think of Altuzarra which showed earlier this month. The opulent, dark side of Tisci is well known to us – he serves it to us each season. There were a lot of old signatures which seem to be flipped every three months by Tisci like a old steak on a grill party. The religious prints, the cut-out skirts or even the peplum is all a deja vu. I need some fresh air at Givenchy. Please.

_10-givenchy

_12-givenchy

_16-givenchy

_26-givenchy

_A2X0690

_43-givenchy

Kate Bush Mood. Chloe AW15

_A2X0118

Kate Bush was the woman which inspired Claire Wright Keller, the designer of Chloe this fall. Gypsy-esque dresses, bandanas, babooschka-like coats – a beautiful boheme and homage to the iconic singer. The patchworked poncho worn by Caroline Trentini was a blast. The suede dresses with cute lace details brought romantic attitude. Anja Rubik, with her killer double-walk looked perfect. Too much compliments? Well. The collection was simply great. Bravo!

07-chloe

11-chloe

12-chloe

16-chloe

_A2X0446

22-chloe

27-chloe

41-chloe