Noir Creatures. Yohji Yamamoto AW15

March 10, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

The poet of black, Yohji Yamamoto, pushes the boundary again in his avant-garde world. The dresses weren’t dresses anymore. They were a form of art installations. Like a parachute explosion worn over a black turtleneck. Or a vacuum cleaner overload. There are many interpretations of Yohji’s fall fantasy – one thing’s sure. The more ready-to-wear clothes were great, too. In the black palette, Yohji Yamamoto modifies knitwear, shirts and masculine-inspired silhouettes to form a new dimension. The layering impresses as usual, making the models magically drown in black. Styled with perfect fedoras, the outfits were eccentric and wearable at the same time – even though, some might have been still under construction.

Humour Chic. Maison Margiela AW15

March 10, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

So, here we are. The second collection by John Galliano for Maison Margiela. Without explanation – John matches the spirit of Maison Martin Margiela PERFECTLY. Now with explanation. The collection was a more than fun – it had a melancholic humour in it. A bit childish, a bit grumpy. But bold and full of colour. The vinyl coat with green lilac attached to it talked bad witches; the Mary-Jane shoes were over-sized, so they made us think little children trying to look mature in their mum’s footwear; the orange gloves and voluminous caftans appeared to be inspired with aristocratic ladies who always have this magical aura around them… whatever they say, good that Galliano is back after a traumatic breaks and again brings fashion back to fashion.

Abstract Feel. Dior AW15

March 9, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Oh yes! Raf Simons again makes his fashion interesting. For fall, the RTW collection looks cosmic – high-tech sequins look like second, shiny skin of the model; the psychodelic latex boots and printed dresses are super eye-catchy. The green coat is toxic in it’s beauty. Everything lacquered and at the same time reminding something of reptiles and other animals. The furs and interesting fluid-like craft techniques are mind-blowing. Raf Simons described this collection not only primitive in a sense, but as “something more liberated, darker, more sexual.” Something more than Dior’s femme fleur, in other words which he brought monotonously for few seasons.

Don’t Leave Me Now. Loewe AW15

March 9, 2015August 21, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Jonathan Anderson’s second women ready-to-wear collection for Loewe is a fresh look at a traveler’s wardrobe – tweed pants, comfy over-sized jackets, warm cashmere turtlenecks and easy dresses are just few of the new basics Anderson offers for the luxe voyagers. And just to heat it up, the British designer mixed bold, colourful accents with seriously good accessories – the Puzzle bag in blue or emerald suede is everything .”Like Spanish women,” he added. “They know who they are, they know how to have fun.” The Loewe woman for fall thinks about flirting, too – the huge sunglasses said it all. The azure pleated skirts drifted through the air in a very romantic way. Although the collection reminds me of J.W. Anderson’s London presentation, it still leaves a positive feeling.

Le Depot. Vetements AW15

March 8, 2015August 19, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Demna Gvasalia invited the guests to a 70’s famous, gay club “Le Depot”, where his fall collection was presented. The Maison Margiela alumn nailed it, just like last season – the clothes had this “whatever” attitude shouting all over them; it’s rare in Paris nowadays to see such an alternative fashion show – just like Jacquemus, Gvasalia brings old fresh mood in interesting venues. If talking of the clothes, we can observe two major things going on in here. First, the over-size trend which seems to be a signature for this brand. Second, the “Sapeurs-Pompiers” and “Sécurité” T-shirts, which looked like they might’ve been brought out in response to the Charlie Hebdo attacks that terrified the world earlier this year. And, of course it’s impossible not to mention other pieces – the exaggerated aviator jacket, the patent leather XXL boots, the mohair mini-skirts and the motor-bad-girl jacket.

But why was the show presented in “Le Depot”?“ “In Paris all of the good clubs shut down in the 70s,” said one of the designer after the show. The club culture that once gave birth to subversive subcultures might be dead, but Vetements team are ready to inject the city’s fashion scene with a punk spirit. There was no better place for it, than a red light-lit sex club. “I feel like there is a new energy in here. We want to push it – not necessarily to bring anything back, but to give it a new life. Things are still quite dusty, old and conservative.” You better keep your mind on this brand.