Vintage. Creatures of The Wind Pre-Fall 2015

December 10, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Creatures of The Wind always produce collections which are nostalgic, but in a nice, fresh way. For pre-fall 2015, boys of CoTW brought a cool air of vintage- grandma’s fur coat, fabrics brought from Asian countries, warm wool caftans that used to be your dad’s bath robe- all of that felt beautiful and very deep. Although many things in this collection seem to be very different, I bet nothing was random for the designers. Definitely, the most heart-breaking piece of this collection is the long sequined skirt with those blue elements- India, Myanmar? Or maybe something totally different? Surely that’s a long, warm story to tell. Simply, interpret this collection the way you want to.

So French. Chloe Pre-Fall’15

December 9, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

For pre-fall, Chloe’s Clare Waight Keller felt the attitude of freedom, continuing SS15’s main theme. Somewhere between David Bowie and Kate Bush scene craziness and Jane Birkin’s fashion for bow shirts, Clare outstood herself. This collection was basically a master-piece. Pony hair A-skirts, python leather bags, brown palette capes, tweed blazers and “whatever” trousers are just few of my favourites. The models, kept in very Parisian styling, looked casual but stylish and strong. And then very sexy butterfly wings —and that sensuality operated throughout the collection as a whole. Chloé is usually associated with a kind of virginal, flirty look, but Waight Keller chucked it this time—some of these clothes were intensely womanly, others rather boyish, and a good deal of them were borderline feral. So, whether Clare thought of androgynous Bowie or feminine Birkin- this clash works on me.

Salzburg. Chanel Pre-Fall’15

December 2, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

The strongly anticipated Chanel metiers d’art collection for Pre-Fall 2015 is reavealed. In the heart of Schloss Leopoldskron, one of the most magnificient and historical places in Austria, the show was presented, keeping it between the border lines of Salzburg’s legacy and Karl Lagerfeld buzz. As you might guess, there were lots of embroideries, knits and embellishments which are not only typical for this region of Europe, but also for the metiers d’art tradition. First of all, Salzburg is the place where Coco Chanel found her first inspiration for the iconic little black jacket- just by seeing the lobby boy’s “outfit”. So, no wonder why we saw a lot of it here, in new colours and versions. Worn with sweat-pants (yes, in Austria), super opulent bags, feather trimmed hats and brogues, the clothes felt nostaligic with a fresh perspectve. Victorian turtlnecks and floral motives where here, too. Plus, the clothes for men reminded me more of waiters in Bavarian restaurant rather than Salzburg princes… Truly, I thought the collection will be much worse. But it wasn’t. It had a nice sense of humour, warm venue (not some kind of super-market) which was the Schloss library chamber. For a while I observed more deeply Karl Lagerfeld’s moves at Chanel and the outcome is- his Pre-Falls are better, than all the other collections. After Mumbai, Moscow, Edinbourgh, Dallas, Salzburg feels really fine- all of them are showing what metiers d’art is. And now, it’s time for Cracow in my opinion. The city’s charm would look great at Chanel’s next Pre-Fall…

Ace & Jig

November 19, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

What is Ace & Jig? When I first heard that simple, catchy name I knew from the beginning that it’s going to be cozy and cute. And I wasn’t mistaken. The designers, Jenna Wilson and Cary Vaughan, constantly bring new ideas to their New York-based label. They make winters be all about ponchos while summers feel the seaside notions and slightly hippie vibes. Material is Ace & Jig’s first love and to see them using traditional mills in India for making and dyeing their lovely textiles sounds great. For summer 2015, the duo gives as a flashback at pajamas craze of the 20’s, marine stripes and sailor pants with suspenders. The ease of those pieces, the mood the designers bring and the relaxing styling the look-book has makes me really want summer comeback. Those hand-embroidered caftans and signature checked shirts surely will deliver a warm ray of sun to your wardrobe. To end up this warm post, I truly recommend yout to follow their new account on Instagram! aceandjig.com

Not That Perfect

November 15, 2014November 15, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Cedric Charlier

The SS15 season is all about 70’s- so, how you might know, a theme full of colours, imperfections and prints. The designers truly thought of “raw” touches in their pieces- Cedric Charlier, the Paris-based designer, made the red & blue threads go out from the black fabric in his dresses; Miuccia Prada mixed vintage silk materials with linen, creating a chaotic “not so perfect” feeling. J.W. Anderson at Loewe and Yohji Yamamoto simply through the mish-mash embroideries and cottons on the model’s bodies. Although it’s not about clean lines, this kind of lightness feels pretty much appealing, isn’t it?