“It’s really about the young French girl,” says Julien Dossena, who with Lion Blau and Florent Buonomano designs the new Paris-based label Atto. Then in the next breath, “We try to have a little of the Japanese wrapping technique, enveloping the body. It’s about this balance between clean and sharp and really sensual.” So it’s a bit of everything really, which, in this era of increasingly blurred borders, makes sense. The three designers of Atto, who sharpened their teeth in Balenciaga studio under Nicolas Ghesquiere wings, know how to make their fresh label youtful and very chic. Dossena showed his first collection as creative director of Paco Rabanne this fall—they insisted that Atto as a particular project will be less about runway-style statements on fashion and more about real-life wearability. “When you go into a department store, everything on the designer floor is super- or over-designed. We want to be accessible, but still have that creativity,” says Dossena, adding that accessories may be somewhere down the line. “Atto is reminiscent of a sixties minimalism,” says Paola Russo, the cofounder of L.A.’s Just One Eye, who is known for spotting and nurturing young talent. “And they’ve found a modern way to interpret refined sexiness.”
Reviews
Ruban, Ruban, Ruban!
Ruban is the moments leading label from Moscow. The label that is full of pretty skirts, warm colours and beautiful silhouettes, just can’t be not loved! And the AW14 collection is, no wonder, amazing. The tules with all these fabrics; the fur pockets; the coloured leather… Everything is like from a fairy-tale. Designed by Alisa and Julia Ruban, the brand is a mixture of Russia’s traditional dressing and Parisian chic… I am once again, in love!
Trend Report AW14
As the winter shows for 2014 ended, I must admit- that was the season of elegance. Comparing to SS14, it wasn’t artsy, but it was classical. The pieces are mostly timeless and wearable, while the colour palette is between black and pastel pink to seductive red and safe beige… maybe you may say it sounds boring, but don’t be disappointed- it’s not. Just recall Alessandro Dell Acqua at Rochas, Jeremy Scott at Moschino, Nicolas Ghesquiere at Louis Vuitton, the “relaxing” Marc Jacobs collection or 70′s mad Prada! No. That wasn’t a bad season. It was a season of calmness and femininity.
Cocoon Coat- Large coat means more than a fur this season. And if it’s a cocoon-parachute coat, then it’s even better! It’s warm, practical and artsy- you may wear it the whole winter, forgetting about sweaters, scarves and all others! Kenzo, Chloe, Yohji Yamamoto
Sweet Sixties- This time, the sixties mean biker jackets, leather coats, fur tops and monochrome mini-dresses. The perfect example is Gucci, which was inspired with archival jet-set and timeless pieces… Just like Louis Vuitton which showed as a coat that is already a must-have of the season. Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Victoria Beckham, Saint Laurent
The New Knitwear- Forget your grandma’s sweaters. AW14 is the time of new knits- they may be knotted around your neck, used as trousers, worn like a huge Grizzly bear or styled in a very attractive way. Don’t forget a matchy hand-bag and the Derby shoes! Stella McCartney, Christophe Lemaire, Celine, The Row, Marc Jacobs
Borrowed from the Man- A over-sized masculine jacket is just the right thing this season. But it shouldn’t be worn formally- a skirt giving a leg or a printed shirt will make it feminine and chic. And if you don’t fear the nipple, wear it like Anja Rubik at Anthony Vaccarello! Hermes, Anthony Vaccarello, Haider Ackermann, Maison Martin Margiela, Comme des Garcons
Robe- this is a fresh thing- wear a robe as a coat! Or rather a coat looking like your bath-robe. Surely this option will hit the street style looks and going to dominate everywhere. Simply tie the belt around your waist and go ahead for winter! Marques Almeida, Isa Arfen, Celine, Altuzarra, Moschino
The Queen of Gold- “The color gold is the color of success, achievement and triumph. Associated with abundance and prosperity, luxury and quality, prestige and sophistication, value and elegance, the psychology of this color implies affluence, material wealth and extravagance.” Saint Laurent, Prada, Thom Browne
Red- This color is a warm and positive color associated with our most physical needs and our will to survive. It exudes a strong and powerful masculine energy. Ha. Thomas Tait, Rosie Assoulin, Saint Laurent, Prada, Isa Arfen, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Prabal Gurung, Sacai
Velvet Nights- Velvet is very a ce soir. It was used in sensual gowns, jumpsuits and laser-cut gothic dresses… velvet is surely the fabric you want to wear for Winter. Erdem, Jason Wu, Tom Ford, Chanel
Safari Girl is very sexy- the new girl in panther print is just the right think. Wear an animal printed coat with militaire khaki trousers and heels to make whole Paris yours… Rrrraawwwrrrrrr… Balmain, Givenchy, Isabel Marant, Givenchy,
Pastel Pink- Candy coats, girlie jackets, romantic maxi dresses… and all kept in beautiful, pale pastel pink. It looks perfect even on fur! Just note Marc Jacobs- his fur jackets were a pastel spectrum of apricot, purple and blush… simply cute! Christopher Kane, Delpozo, Marc Jacobs, Miu Miu, Rochas
Artsy/Craftsy- It’s a bit tribal and a bit Grandma-ish. Presented on dresses, bags and tops, knitwear and hand-made fabrics where kind of everywhere. This trend is cozy and warm… while very chic and elegant! Maki Oh, Louis Vuitton, Suno, Altuzarra, Rodarte
Volume Vs. Sheer- wearing a sheer skirt with a voluminous chunky sweater or huge, huge, huge aviator jacket is just the right thing. Why? It looks a bit elusive and very sexy… and you still can give some leg during winter. Fendi, No.21, No.21, Sacai
Astrakhan- take out your old Astrakhan fur, and wear it like it’s new- maybe it’s not very warm, but looks luxurious, chic and elegant. MSGM used it on masculine coats, and Tom Ford made it… well, Tom Ford. MSGM, Celine, Tom Ford, Miu Miu
Fur is Art- what only did not happen to fur this season- it was in a form of expression for the designers. But most of all, it was very cubical. And surely, colourful. Fendi, 3.1. Philip Lim, Altuzarra, Roksanda Ilincic, Alexander McQueen, Marni
The Perfect Black Coat- I think it’s pretty logical key trend. Who doesn’t want a black coat during winter? And additionally, worn as a dress? And that Celine one with white buttons is a must-have… Celine, Lanvin, Chanel, Dior
Werk Gurrl- Girl, work it out. Sporty chic is back for good in form of parkas, warm jackets, gym sweatshirts and tennis dresses. And, remember that your sport-wear must be colourful. Just like the one from Sacai or Wang… Louis Vuitton, Balenciaga, Sacai, Alexander Wang, Fendi, Miu Miu
Happy Prints- these circles, stripes and waves just make you smile. Maybe the season was more about elegance and timeless fashion, but these 60′s/70′s prints at Prada are not a bad idea. Acne, Dries Van Noten, Prada, Valentino
Illusion– Hypnotize yourself and your friends with a very magical dress or coat… This psychedelic trend isn’t about 60′s, but about power of illusion. I am already attracted to it like to the whole, AW14 season…
Perfection. Celine Pre-Fall’14
Aah, Phoebe. You did this again. Your Pre-Fall 2014 for Celine is perfect. And, exclusively at Design & Culture by Ed, you can see the whole collection and new bags, as it’s first here! The collection is amazingly simple about concepts- sweaters tied around the waist, masculine white shirt with a coat and the blue plisse skirt are my favourites. The checked dresses are worn with fur stoles, while shoes are style with long, black socks. And to my surprise, the bags are… perfectly same. But in different, lovely colours. The Mini Luggage and Trapeze are here, but kept in pink and bordeaux. This Pre-Fall’14 collection is really great in my opinion! Art by Cy Twombly
Classy Alaia
No fuss, more impact. As always out of schedule, but with friends and cozy atmosphere, Alaia presented his new collection, that is the first one after his recent Musee Galliera exhibition. And, it was totally Alaia. Nothing mind-breaking, but only, and only, class and elegance. Leather, pony hair, knitted body dresses, hooded gowns… and everything kept in toned colours. Mainly, Alaïa stuck to subtle silhouette updates, offering a roomier V-neck jumper and adding a rectangular fringe—occasionally knotted—to the edge of his skirts to give them a fresh swish in place of his typical flounce. A technique he dubbed “Religieuse” combined larger organ pleats with interior accordion pleats, and on a floor-grazing skirt or a truncated cape, the result was something akin to seeing Sister in the corner office. Indeed, with the recurrence of all those starched white poplin shirts, Alaïa further confirmed how his view of femininity has shifted since his heyday of cleavage-bearing necklines.
Design & Culture by Ed 