Marques Almeida is not a denim label, while it’s not totally a fashion label. With it’s Portuguese roots, London studio and denim love, the designers behind Marques Almeida know what’s buzzing. Their SS14 was a phenomen during the September LFW, and the AW14 was already the hot ticket during the recent Winter season. What really makes Almeida interesting, is that they use denim fabric not in trousers (although their pair of jeans a real fashion experience) but in everything- bras, shoes, sweaters… But denim is not only their favourite fabric. During SS14, we saw a calf leather mini-dress, and the AW14 was mostly made entirely from velvet and cute, shaggy fur (that was covering the sneakers. And they look extremely cool). The Marques Almeida is full of attitude… and it’s the new cool label from London!
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Reviews
The New Volumes
These two women labels from New York & London are on everybody’s lips right now! Isa Arfen (London) and Rosie Assoulin (NYC), the two brands known for voluminous, joyful dresses and skirts, just showed off their recent collections for AW14… Isa Arfen was inspired with Tina Chow, who is known for her artistic and loose style, and Rosie Assoulin is a perfect fit for all kind of parties: red carpet gala to a casual brunch with the loved ones. And what’s more, these two offer us vibrant prints and strong colours to cheer up the Fall season… Surely, it’s hard not to fall in love with Isa and Rosie and their fresh labels!
Isa Arfen
Rosie Assoulin
Back to Basics
Celine just gave as a taste of what is their Pre-Fall’14 collection about- it’s toned, full of grey and black wool. And everything is a want- from this big-buttoned coat to those pleated skirts. Or even that white shirt with this fur stole. And of course the pointy shoes worn with socks! Seriously, this collection is a master-piece. The clothes are timeless and mature at the same time… keeping it very Phoebe Philo. My heart gets so big as these round earrings, seeing this Pre-Fall’14 collection…
Sew On. Vika Gazinskaya AW14
Well… The most interesting Russian designer, Vika Gazinskya, just went out of ideas. Sorry, but sew-on-badges embroidered on caps and dresses look a bit… Home-made? But not hand-made- rather “sewn because I was bored”. And these trompe l’oil printed dresses and blouses? So Maison Martin Margiela. Even those “tattoos” look deja vu (see Viktor & Rolf Haute Couture for Summer). I thought that Vika was the only future of Russian fashion. But, unfortunately, as you may see, she is getting traumatically boring about her ideas. And that’s a pitty.
Symphony. Hermes AW14
It’s all! The Paris Fashion Week ended, just like the whole fashion month… And as a beautiful ending, here is Christophe Lemaire’s AW14 for Hermes. And, yes, it’s great. A bit sophisticated, a bit masculine- but full of must-have pieces. Like that grey coat or those socks stuffed into the heels… I am really interested nowadays about Lemaire- his seductive, Hitchcockian style for women is romantic and truly Parisienne… And Hermes is the perfect au revoir towards the lovely PFW!
Design & Culture by Ed 