HC: ATELIER VERSACE AW13

July 1, 2013January 21, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Naomi Campbell walked down the runway like only Naomi can, in a jacket held together with crystal hooks and eyes. Underneath she wore a black lace bra, inspired with Madonna, and she was flashing a substantial swath of upper thigh. That was amazing. The icon in pretty new, fresh form, was mind blowing. The collection of Atelier Versace by Donatella Versace was all about bright past. First of all you need to know, that Donatella is recreating only two years, after a long break when Gianni died. This is like a renaissance. I should say, that for real Atelier Versace is now and then two much better than all these Chanel and Dior Haute Couture… All the Sergeenko’s, Valli’s, Jarrar’s need to hide and will never be as good as Atelier. Gianni is dead, but Donatella lives, and she really makes the label up. This is fantastic. I love it. Really.
This collection wasn’t about shitty minimalism but is propagated by Dior, or cheap looking wedding dresses by Chanel. The details- crystal hooks, fur, amazing tailor ship, best quality. And a cat suit that plunged down to Lindsey Wixson’s navel was paneled from lace, net, and handwoven leather. That piece was the least thirties-ish of the lot, but all of the models wore real diamond jewelry designed by Versace. I feel the Gianni spirit here!!!

Men’s: SLIMane. Saint Laurent SS14

July 1, 2013March 23, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

The Enfant Terrible of French Fashion did it again just as he usually does- Hedi Slimane made me and all others, first of all excited, then scared, shocked and amazed in elusive way. Even, if his collections have a straight meaning, they are elusive. Hedi takes on his shows the ugliest in the world models, then put California garage band rock and roll music possibly recorded day before the show and some kind of Johnny Cash/rich boy from Las Vegas clothes. By the way, he doesn’t give a f***. I can’t say that I would wear any of these clothes (but love the shoes!) but I can’t say that don’t like the collection! It is totally different from other menswear, full of minimalism and prints. It’s as cool as AW13 womenswear for SL.
Cool biker jackets, leopard prints, gold, ties and suits. All in a very rock and roll edition, but in a more exclusive and “casino boy” look. Of course everything is extremely slim, that I personally hate (I love loose clothes) but thats totally other topic. For sure Slimane wasn’t at all in Paris while creating the collection. Los Angeles, hometown of the designer? California? It’s more about American coolness than European elegance. For this I respect Hedi Slimane as fashion designer!

Men’s: Heavy Metal. Rick Owens SS14

June 30, 2013August 28, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

What a show was that! When Rick Owens invited Estonian heavy metal band Winny Puhh (yes, that means Winnie The Pooh), he says he felt “an instant jolt of recognition. And Estonian is such an alien language that when it’s shrieked at you by a guy in a wolf mask, it becomes major.” They had it all that Rick needed for his show- scary, sleazy and hardcore look. If you don’t know Winny Puhh, and hadn’t a chance to know what is Eurovisia in Europe then I will shortly explain that. Eurovisia is a expensive, but cheap looking TV show that is hosted everytime in different countries of Europe. It’s popular in Europe, but mostly European are ashamed of it… And it’s demolic choreography, WORST singers of the specific country and the cheap, sorrow atmosphere. So, back to Rick Owens show- that sounds very interesting and different that he took these strangers for music thing for his show. Owens’ was called Vicious. That was the spirit Owens wanted—”cheerful viciousness, viciousness with humor. I felt like doing something ludicrous and fun.” The clothes- well, in rhythm of the music the models nearly ran. “Urgent movement and fierce athleticism were the driving forces of the collection. Long-sleeve tees, close to the body, zipped even closer, over shorts…sheer diagonals, perforations, and mesh tanks revealing the flesh beneath…leather tanks flying away into long fringe, fringed leather belts…everything moving” wrote Tim Blanks. Totally agree. That was something awfully mind blowing.

Men’s: Mature Cool. Kenzo SS14

June 29, 2013June 29, 2013 | Design & Culture by Ed

I was a little bit disappointed with the new Kenzo collection for men. The entrance was superb- a fruit mosaic on the floor, market stalls with Kenzo fresh juices and so on- in other words colours. But that was just the opposite to the clothes that were presented in a huge hall with tribunes around. Models walked on a circular platform very close to the front row, and then went up the stairs on the highest “stage” of this huge chamber, standing, and presenting the cool jackets, bags and many more. It’s all sounds great, but the collection unfortunately wasn’t so good.
The first look gave first impression- boring elegant sportswear. In blue colours. Then it was all grey with some hind of confetti print. Then red phase with black elements on the tshirts. It’s all boring, but cool and kind if nice. There were few cool looks, but last season was much better. Unfortunately, that wasn’t this what I was expecting. Not youthful and full of colourful, but MATURE TO DEATH. And now we won’t wear the Kenzo Tigers but Kenzo Tsunamis.

Men’s: Ethno-Crush. Givenchy SS14

June 28, 2013 | Design & Culture by Ed

Nobody does menswear as good as Givenchy. Precisely, nobody does menswear as good as RICCARDO TISCI. The Italian designer of luxurious, high street fashion label Givenchy just did something in his collection, that have just hit me. Few seasons, Givenchy was a bit, I would say, same to the previous ones. Still, it was cool, but there was a lack of something fresh, a bit couture and strange. But, thanks god, definitely within this collection of menswear that changes- there is now a new crash of the prints, colours and everything else!
The SS14 for men was presented in a Parisian garage parking- it felt industrial and I (still, viewing on life stream) thought it will be minimalistic. But I was mistaken! The first look was like an arrow sent from an Amazonian local warrior- colourful jacket, full of prints of something similar to airplanes, palms, ethnic figures and stripes- like a crash of airplane in a jungle- as you see most models have some hind of paintings on their faces, that may be connected to new Riccardo’s inspiration- Ethnic Cultures! Everything else was as great as that- and on my wish list have already landed the sweatshirts with human faces covered with feathers and other decorations print. By the way one of these jackets would be a perfect match for me! That is an awesome collection. Here are real, out of heart, congratulations for Tisci. I love this type of fashion moments!