Men’s: Les Tres Hommes

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HAIDER ACKERMAN- This is his first menswear collection since 2010! From this time I was waiting and waiting and now it is- Haider Ackerman SS14 for men! It is really superb! Of course everyone knew how it more or less will look like- very Haider style. The presentation was similar to women’s- satin, chiffon, silk, dark colour palete were seen and this type of clothing like crotch pants and loose tops. I called this collection an Andalusian chic. First of all the colours- red, orange, kakki, all in dark tones. And it’s all super male style and modern at the same time! Plus the model’s tattoos look marvelous. This collection beats all menswear SS14 for now! 20130627-101954 AM.jpg20130627-102024 AM.jpg20130627-102047 AM.jpg20130627-102036 AM.jpg
RAF SIMONS- the designer of Dior didn’t suprise nor was bad. It was very Raf- minimalism, prints, shorts, socks and broques. I would wear SOME of these T-shirts, but the rest wasn’t my type. The prints were all about industrial packages, like for example of clusters. But in reality the collection wasn’t very different from last Summer. However it was good!

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VALENTINO- it was very classy and still was connected to last season- camo. The sweatshirts and shoes were all over covered with camo! The rest was just as great as this print. Sophisticated sport elegance, leather pockets on shirts, cool trousers and beautiful colours of blue and orange. That was a very casual collection mixed with luxury and cool touch! Love it!

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Hitchcockian Seduction

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Hermes by Christophe Lemaire for AW13 is revisting the Hitchcock woman into a new generation- perfect anonymous chic to provide a subtle charge. This is what Parisian Hermes should be like- a bit menswear, elegant and super chic. This is a antidote for the colour splash on the street style, that for a long time won’t wear Hermes for everyday. But why? Too expensive? Yes it is,but not form these Russian girls and American billlionaires. Hermes clothes do not have a label name EVERYWHERE. Ok, when Mira Duma wears this black tweed costume with fur pompon, there is no double C on it, but everyone who is interested a bit in fashion knows it’s Chanel. What I love in Hermes is the classical touch and this simplicity in every cape, fur… That is so beautiful!

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Virtual. Christopher Kane Resort’14

Slide1-kopia 8“I love science” said Christopher Kane during his presentation of Resort 2014 for women. And this collection is seriously fantastic. Kane, inspired by the kind of digital imaging that defined the dawn of computerized special effects, did something that kicked everyone in their faces. This is like you’ve into a virtual world, where everything is 3-D and has it’s layers. There are women bodies and flowers. And now imagine, this world on a… sweatshirt or a dress! After AW13, I thought Kane’s creativity will be killed by the new group Kering that invests him lots of money. The AW13 collection was like very classical, colourless… luxurious. But now, after seeing this I am so pleased, that this absolutely great designer will be still shocking! Slide2-kopiaSlide3-kopiaThe whole “computerized” idea reminded me of this little Pokemon fellow that is called Porygron. As you see, it’s also kind of virtual, edgy and colourful! From now, Porygron is the most trendy Pokemon in London! Going back to the collection, couture is strongly noticed. But a very Londonese. And I think that some super stars could for sure wear this black dress with the lily in the front- it is so beautiful! Christopher Kane is a really different designer- luxurious (price!!!) and at the same time artistic and full of idea. This is what I like! Slide4-kopiaSlide5-kopia

Men’s: Extraordinary. London SS14

1001068_10152008296729569_435791004_nWell I was really excited about the SS14 Collections for man- and mostly for London ones. You know, Gucci for man is always about coats and shirts. Dior is black and white. Dolce and Gabbana is always into Sicily, etc. So here we are in London, the town where MOST talented young designers do their jobs. This season I was waiting for J.W. Anderson. TRAGEDY. I will not show this on blog, because this is just to terrible. If you think of Anderson this season, you see a boy in a skirt and in a midriff. Yyyyuuu. Who also didn’t do best was Sibling. First collection was super cool with all these knitts and so on. Now there are less knitts. And nothing else. But the designers I introduce here impressed me. Some less, some more. I am insanely in love with Richard Nicoll prints that are SO GOOD! Craig Green was also superb. TOPMAN… You will see. And Chris Kane… Aw, LOVE IT!Slide1-kopia 8CHRISTOPHER KANE_____ Chris is getting even better and better in his print skills. He mixes elegance with colour just as at Woman’s and Man’s. He is a real shooting star of this fashion year. These 3-D, structural human face t-shirts are so amazing with the strong colours. In reality, I see that Kane uses some kind of high tech in his clothes, because this cool coat with “waves” doesn’t look like normal cotton. Same as this yellow tracksuit. A wish. I am already up to that red face tee!Slide2-kopiaTOPMAN DESIGN_____ That was like Isabel Marant, but for man. Just slightly. The flower embroiderments on sweaters and shirts looked cosmic with these shades. Still thinking if I hate it or love it. Maybe I would wear this black shirt that comboys wore on their mustangs… But only for a carnaval!

ALAN TAYLOR______ A absolvent of LCM, just as Craig Green. Looks bad, but it is still original idea. And lets hold to that. A linen, gray top with attached elegant  linen, gray jacket. It would look together (one on other) better and stylish, but not UNIQUE. And should be always UNIQUE if we talk ’bout London.Slide3-kopiaAGI & SAM_____ A pair of designers thought of casual clothing in a colourful edition. I can’t say I am really shocked or something- This is all about perfect Britisch tailorship with a mix of modernity and a colour splash. My one hundred favourite is the orange coat. So summerish and my style!Slide4-kopiaASTRID AGREN_____ This girl knows (or maybe not) what a man should wear every summer. Mint colours, loose tracksuits and of course her biggest bestseller… white lace t-shirt. Well. Would love to wear this mint sport suit, but would look bad in this lace. And I don’t thik that men look god in lace- oppositely, lace is for women. I don’t know how modern time it should be, but for me lace is for ladies. And I don’t like it. This is visibly a gender mixing that paradoxally I like,. Yes I wrote that lace for men is a bad idea, but at the same time I think that it is always good to experiment! For now bravo to Astrid!Slide5-kopiaRICHARD NICOLL_____ That was the best London collection of this season. Richard Nicoll. His womenswear is a bit boring, but menswear… SO COOL! The snake prints with these men taken from ancient painting look like a collage of Linder Sterling. The varsity jacket and sweatshirt look really good with all these sweatpants… Nothing more to say. Just a wish for more collections like this and… my size available on MrPorter.com!Slide6-kopiaCRAIG GREEN______ This is a human art. The texture “installations” that Craig Green is known for are just awesomely mind blowing. It looks like if a colour splash exploded from a body of a man. Last season it was all dark, but now the surrealistic textures are all dyed with ink… If someone prefers something darker, Craig thought of a faceless serial killer (my idea!). This model look really scary without his “face” but bound with dark fabric and junky sweater with leather patchworks. Just where is his knife? In these junky-patchworked-sweatpants? My total thought of the collection- OUT. OF. THIS. WORLD!

💃 Lady-Like 🐅

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The Lady trend takes a new hold through few last seasons with modernity and minimalism! And what is the new fashion object of a modern lady? No, not Jay Gatsby. A furry scarf or coat! What amazed me was the most lady like label is… Celine! Through lots of seasons, Phoebe Philo used I think the biggest amount of fur in her beautiful clothes! Prada in SS11 did a crazy thing with furry scarves- stripey print and lots of colours! This AW season Marc Jacobs used fur in a mature way- these accessories together with the gold gowns would be right thing for Gatsby woman…

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Pictures: from left to right: 1. Jean Paul Gaultier Pre Fall 13 and The Row Resort 14, 2.,3. Prada SS11, 4. Celine Pre-Fall 11, 5. Marc Jacobs Resort 14, 6. Lanvin AW13, 7. Marni AW13, 8. Celine Pre Fall 10, 9. Marc Jacobs AW13