Bambi Killer. Givenchy AW13

March 4, 2013August 7, 2013 | Design & Culture by Ed

Just beautiful. And killing. This is how I describe recent Givenchy collection by Riccardo Tisci.. It all began with a black sweatshirt with a Bambi the Deer picture (this fellow comes from Disney) that is “killed” with a black&white photo of woman thats doing something (bad). Tisci, the designer, says that the collection is very personal and he used his old photos and mixed them up with things that influenced him from childhood. So Bambi is an answear then.

I saw lots of comparatives between Givenchy’s menswear collection and womenswear- there totally same jackets, most of prints and materials. Even the setting. And do you remember the violet flowers print? It’s also this season! However there was something sweet in this collection. For exemple the pink flowers on biker jackets that reminded me strongly of Celine. Riccardo Tisci, I should say always has something about flowers!

I also loved the flame print so red and yellow! It was everywhere on- jackets, skirts and dresses. I should say everything that Riccardo designed for this season, looked very wearable and comfortable. He ended the collection in a easy way. A maxi flowless dress with emebelished flowers at the bottom was covered with a thick wool sweater. It was beautiful. And what else- Natalia Vodianova ended the show in these awesome hairstyle! The hair of all was shoet but curly, and in pink colour! So sexy! Givenchy together with Celine and Kenzo is the best for Paris Fashion Week!

Turkey Express. Kenzo AW13

March 3, 2013August 7, 2013 | Design & Culture by Ed

Kenzo was a real trip to Asia. But to the modern one, west one. There were lots of Turkish and Indian influenced prints, colours like gold, red, and really great materials! At the beginning I thought that the designers were inspired with Proenza Schouler last seasons collection. But then it got even better and better! And I am happy because the designers are getting even more mature! No more jungle prints, tigers that I still love , but more rich and stylish! Love it!

The ultimate print of the collection was a turkish eye! It’s a symbol of happiness and luck. The jackets and pants were totally printed in it. There was also a Jacard thems- whole outfits made of jacquard material with beautiful prints. I really loved the blue colour on shirling coats. And the last dress in Indian patterns in gold shades that was covered in foil was a real essential! Lovely collection!!!

Cafe Noisette. Celine AW13

March 3, 2013August 31, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Celine! Thanks God, Celine was sent to Paris Fashion Week! And it’s as always the best; nothing to add or subtract! Everything was kept in a minimalistic and modern way. Colours were fantastic: cream colour (shade of a Noisette Cafe in all Paris bar’s), beige, blueish, black and white. The first dress was perfect- simple and elegant! Coats were mind blowing- overloose, just great.
And definetly I also loved everything with structured tops- this is a new classic of Celine that was seen last season!
Did you see these green long boots that look like leggins? Amazing and sexy. And one of the most interesting things of the show were the dresses that had attached to back not used sleeves that were tied together as a connection! Quite complicated, I know, but still really cool. Unfortunately I didn’t liked the checked patterns on coats and skirt. It was a bit not matching the collection. However it is not spoiling the collection at all! And loved the mink fur dress! Minimalistic but luxurious! Phoebe Philo did a very good job this season! The best show of Paris!

Kitsch Vs. Neutral

March 2, 2013June 25, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

There is a new fight between two trends in Paris! Simple or Kitsch? Strong colours or beige and creme? Flowers, jewels, some kind of LOVE signs or shirling and leather? In this post I will cover four collections- Lanvin and Balmain that are classified as kitsch and Rick Owens and Nina Ricci as neutral and simple. So lets start maybe with something calm for eye, Nina Ricci. Katia and Marielle Labèque performed “Two Movements for Two Pianos” by Philip Glass on side by side grand pianos in the middle of a huge runway covered with old red carpets, giving a romantic feeling. Indeed, the collection was as romantic as the music that these two artists produced!The collection was a bit sporty but still very elegant. Everything was kept in simple colours hat are still eye caching- red, white, beige and black! My favourite look was for sure the dress with a bustier with mink fur on the top that gave a slightly different look!Now it’s the time for other collection are pretty liked, and was very simple in lines and cuts, Rick Owens. These hilarious hairstyles the models had were so great! I think that Owens is always winning with other designers, with we are taliking about hairstyles. Rick used a lot of creme and white shirling fur on jackets and coats. There were some minimalistic column like silk dresses, ruffles on tops, leather gloves. But it wasn’t, you know, much of it. Rick Owens showed this season a sensitive beauty of ready-to-weat clothes!And now it’s the time for kitsch in Paris. I think, Alber Elbaz was sick at the moment of designing the collection. Everything was so not matching. Without a form. A fail! Why did the Lanvin designer, put these horrible necklaces with hearts and pearls with a horrible signs like “YOU” or “LOVE” or something else? How is it possible to spoil a nice long silk beige dress with some kind of a furry scarf and jewellry that looked like from a petrol station? Why? It wasn’t even luxury. It was passe. Sorry Alber Elbaz, but that was a very poor collection. P.S. What the hell did these bugs were doing on a ruffled top?(This post is going to end soon :D) Balmain with Olivier Rousteing did a good job. Let’s say it straight- Balmain can’t be easy and minimalistic. It should be always luxury, ornamental and kitsch! This time Olivier chose new colours like emerals, red and violet. Most of clothes were velvet and had a really decorated details. I really liked all the structured tops and skirts. I liked the green suede jacket that M. Frackowiak wore. And the big belts were really eye catching! It was altogether sexy and sophisticated, just as it should be at Balmain! I’m clapping! So after these four collections I should say that I loved Nina Ricci and Balmain. Rick Owens was good, but a bit classy (for Rick of course) and Lanvin was horrible… So there is 2-2 for both of these categories! As we know from New York, Milan and london, luxury and ornamental clothing is back for good, but a little bit of minimalism is always the best!

Unusual. Maison Martin Margiela AW13

March 1, 2013June 25, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Maison Martin Margiela as always went to a fashion lab and made a really, really good collection. What was the thing that was most buzzed about? Of course these totally not normal hand cuffs, that were over big and painted and the a special for all girls with long hair- a hair pocket on the back of nearly all jackets and tops! The trousers had some cool colour lines on the sides giving it a a bit more sophisticated look!

The last look is as always most special at Margiela- totally gold dress from a fabric that reminds me of a kind of heavy harpet a velvet or window cloth… However it looked stunning! There was also a version of a patchwork sweater. MMM never disapoints. And if it does (rarely) it’s always risktaking and experimental!