Meeting Ormaie

July 2, 2019 | Design & Culture by Ed

About a month and half ago (yes, I know it’s been a while… but the coverage of all the fashion weeks going on felt like an eternity), I went to Warsaw for Galilu’s intimate meeting with the mum-and-son duo behind Ormaie Paris, a niche perfume label that’s more than just a scent. Ormaie is a family run fragrance maison with roots deep in art and nature. Creativity is at the heart of the brand – Ormaie’s founders, Marie-Lise Jonak and Baptiste Bouygues, have brought together artists and artisans to write each chapter of the Ormaie story. All of the Ormaie fragrances (there are seven) are composed solely of natural ingredients with the ultimate goal of elegance and quality. The ultra-chic, geometrical flacons attract the eyes; the titles and descriptions of each of the perfumes excite the mind. Let’s see. Yvonne is modern homage to the classical feminine perfume, blending rose and the chypre notes with the scent of red fruits (and it appealed to me so much that I had to get it the moment I discovered it at Galeries Lafayette Champs-Élysées in Paris). Toï Toï Toï, a German expression ballet dancers say to wish good luck before going on to perform, labels a fragrance that evokes polished wooden boards of the stage and the dancer’s waxed ballet shoes. Meanwhile L’Ivrée Bleue is a narcotic scent that depicts the eroticism of Gauguin and the jungle themes of Rosseau. It smells dark vanilla, of rum and of the scents of the island. Oh my.

All photos by Edward Kanarecki.

Three Places in Warsaw

June 17, 2019 | Design & Culture by Ed

Three places you’ve got to visit when in Warsaw…

Mood Scent Bar

It’s not your average store with perfumes. Here, you will discover the world’s most niche fragrances, from the pret-a-porter to haute couture ones. Whether its D.S. & Durga’s Amber Kiso or Orto Parisi’s Boccanera or Stora Skuggan’s Moonmilk, each fragrance sold at Mood Scent Bar tells a unique story. Other than perfumes, you will find here Astier de Villatte’s stationery and Mariage Frères’ delightful teas.

ul. Bracka 3 (they have two more spots).

Capricorn Arthouse

Possibly the most magical place in Warsaw. The owners really sell what they love, from Jamin Puech’s artisan bags to Justyna Górecka’s beautiful, hand-made plates. Today, it’s a growing rarity to find a store that has such a sense of curation. Big love. The store is currently having it’s pop-up at Concept 21 in Poznań!

ul. Mokotowska 42/44

Image House

Luxury vintage is rather a dead topic in Poland. It’s often a random splatter of Zanottis, Pleins, occasional fakes and God knows what else. Well, until I’ve discovered Alicja Napiórkowska’s Image House, which is the ultimate exception. Good, old Céline, Rick Owens, Yves Saint Laurent, Comme Des Garçons… brilliant.

Ul. Mokotowska 52

All photos by Edward Kanarecki.

Polish Jazz. MISBHV SS19

June 13, 2018June 14, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

For a moment, let’s switch from resort look-books and New York’s off-the-schedule runways to Warsaw’s socrealist icon – Palace of Culture. Few days ago, Natalia Maczek and Tomek Wirski did their spring-summer 2019 runway show for the first time in Warsaw. MISBHV stands for so many things: to some, it’s a go-to streetwear label favoured by the big names (Kylie and all). For others, it’s an internationally recognized label that sells in stores among Vetements and Raf Simons. And the other others (like my friends, for instance) know it for great hoodies with intriguing prints.

This season, however, Maczek and Wirski wanted to explore new fields and do something different than usual. Having deep interests in the Polish 50s and 60s, the designers immersed themselves in a theme that doesn’t come up to you instantly when thinking of the brand. Jazz, or rather “Polish Jazz” (as the collection’s name suggests), became the season’s key-point. Moreover, MISBHV invited Rosław Szaybo, the legendary Polish graphic designer (who did album covers for Miles Davis, Janis Joplin and, of course, the cult “Polish Jazz” series) to collaborate on the prints. Blurring the lines between womenswear and menswear, the label’s latest offering includes flowing dresses, over-sized blazers, bike shorts, PVC coats and headscarves (a beautiful nod to Slavic culture!). But there are MISBHV classics as well, like the WARSZAWA print or friendly-to-the-public t-shirts. Polish fashion keeps on evolving, slowly, but it does. And seeing brands like MISBHV having such progress, and executing their visions so well, makes me really proud.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki featuring Wojciech Plewiński’s photograph of Warsaw; Rosław Szaybo’s album covers.

Le Nuvole. Ania Kuczyńska AW17

October 22, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Ania Kuczyńska‘s autumn-winter 2017 collection, elusively titled Le Nuvole (meaning ‘clouds’ in Italian), is a minimalist heaven at the first glace. But is it just plain minimalism? The Warsaw-based designer is known for encoding various references and personal obsessions in her sharply cut, yet tactile garments. This season, it was a nod to her beloved Italy. Don’t associate that tip too superficially, though, as there is nothing like cliché in Kuczyńska’s creativity. Morning black coffee served in Palermo; a glass of Sicilian wine (well relates to the burgundy colour of the must-have ballet slippers); the shade of navy that resembles the Italian, night sky. Then, there’s also Monica Vitti’s ethereal grace in those silk dresses and feminine blouses. The 3/4 skirts ooze with a Luca Guadagnino film sensuality – yes, think of Tilda Swinton’s character in A Bigger Splash. The expressive silhouette of Ania’s new season pieces reflect the motion of Tarantella – folk dance in the Southern part of Italy, characterized by a fast upbeat tempo. Although that seems like quite a lot for one collection, Kuczyńska pulls it off like no other, keeping it true to her style. The mood, the texture, the silhouette – Le Nuvole is what you call eccelente, in every aspect.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki, feauturing Wojciech Plewiński’s shot from ‘Italia ’57’ series. Photos by Stanisław Broniecki, beauty by Marianna Yurkiewicz.

Ania Kuczynska’s Wave

March 29, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Ania Kuczyńska‘s latest capsule collection entitled Black Celebration 1986 is an intimate exploration of memories and associations, likely kept in deep, black-and-white tones. This Polish designer, who’s the founder of Warsaw’s beloved eponymous label, continues to combine and fuse inspirations in the least expected ways. The name of the collection might ring a bell – of course, we’re speaking of Depeche Mode’s most (as for me) melancholic album, which might be a perfect backdrop for these elusive, analog snaps by Stanislaw Boniecki. But Ania goes further, nodding to new wave tendencies in Polish film and music (from Roman Polanski’s intriguing dramas to Krzysztof Komeda’s cinematic tunes). New wave era had a magnetising, truly absorbing aura – the same feelings surrounds Kuczyńska’s garments. Unisex turtlenecks à la the existentialists; below-the-knee pleated skirts; t-shirts with shoulder-exposing cuts. It’s not about pursuing the newness, but rather, focusing on essentials, perfecting them. Kuczyńska’s house codes evolve – and this collection is a beautiful addition to her creative language.