Phoebe Philo is Back!

Phoebe Philo is back, and that’s the Monday morning news I’m here for! The British designer is returning to fashion after a three-year hiatus, not as the creative director of a major luxury house, but as the majority owner of her clothing and accessories label “rooted in exceptional quality and design“. Since Philo’s 2017 exit from Céline, where she delivered incredible, intelligent and refined clothes loved by women across the world, industry insiders have speculated about her next move (remember the Chanel and Alaïa rumours?). But the designer has maintained a low profile, quietly building the Phoebe Philo Studio from her London base. “I am very much looking forward to being back in touch with my audience and people everywhere. To be independent, to govern and experiment on my own terms is hugely significant to me“, she said in an announcement shared with The Business of Fashion. Fashion will make sense again in January 2022, as the first details of Philo’s brand are unveiled. So many questions. Will Phoebe go Old Céline 2.0. or revive her 2000s Chloé years style? Maybe Daria Werbowy, the ultimate Philo model, will return to the public eye? I expect the unexpected!

Above photo by Juergen Teller for Purple Magazine.

Lust For Essentials. The Row SS22

Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen are holding their course, even though most of the designers this season move towards a hedonist mode. Skimp is not in The Row’s vocabulary, and it isn’t likely to be in the future. None of us have been untouched by the pandemic, though, so how has the experience of lockdown changed the Olsens’ design POV and what does The Row’s take on re-emergence style look like? Something unexpected emerged most vividly midway through the lineup in the form of separates for women and men in shades of red and blue, the brightest colors ever to find their way into a collection from the Olsens, who prefer to work with neutrals and classic black and white. There were also the arty details here and there, like the delicate thread belt that accented the drawstring waist of a pair of casual pants or the fringed raw-edges of a fully knit skirt made with three different yarns. A few pieces were hand-painted, a nod, maybe, to the artists and art collectors that number among their clients. The accessories offering has expanded and there was a notable element of fun, as seen in the tiny card cases and coin purses suspended from belts and in the stretchy ankle boots that looked like a cross between scuba socks and wrestler shoes. Overall, the proportions are roomy and the silhouettes are layered – luxe comfort is the key. The Row fans will fall in love with a pair of pressed khakis whose low-slung, flared profile recalled the ’90s, and a jumpsuit with a tank top upper half that was the barest of all the looks assembled here. Pre- or post-pandemic, perfect essentials never go out of style.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.