Sleek. Tom Ford AW19

Hello, NYFW. New season is on, again. There’s no rest from fashion. But then, Tom Ford isn’t here for the newness. For autumn-winter 2019, the designer delivered what he does best: the 90s sleek we all know and used to love at his Gucci. Two specific looks – worn by Maria Carla Boscono and Gigi Hadid – were a straightforward reference to his iconic 1996 collection for the Italian house. The deep, cherry red velvet suit. The jersey column eveningwear from the 2019 outing was a remiscent of the gowns that closed the same collection back then (all-white, worn by Kate Moss and Amber Valletta). Other than that, Tom returned to his tailoring roots, reworking the codes he famously established. The grey horse-rider blazer was sublime, while the version in satin black looked more than relevant with a de luxe hoodie. Some looks were complemented with groovy faux fur hats, while others were styled with sparkgling stilettos. At the very same time, the Tom Ford man should own two looks: a velvet suit, kept in the most alluring shade of burgundy, and a suit in dove grey leather. That’s it.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Power Dressing. Tom Ford SS19

After his over-the-top, kitschy-chic fashion show back in spring, Tom Ford’s spring-summer 2019 collection felt like a colour detox mixed with self-reflection. Black, white, beiges and pale lilac were the leading shades, while the entire line-up took us down the memory lane of Ford’s career. For a moment, we all experienced again his 90s momentum at Gucci, that was all about refined sexiness and confidence – words that match the designer’s current work with the same precision. To a surprise of many, there were as well references to the few year tenure at Yves Saint Laurent, the period that shaped Tom’s aesthetic into a more sublime, after-dark vision of women.

But back to 2018. Draped skirts with lace inserts; jackets and blazers made of fake crocodile leather; satin cocktail dresses and evening gowns with pony-hair details. Some of the looks are fit for goddesses of seduction, other for cosmopolitan bosses. This one all-leather look seemed to be taken straight out of Roxy Music’s cover that featured Amanda Lear. But no, in the end this collection wasn’t created with a dominatrix in mind, but for powerful women who want garments that look equally powerful. The menswear part can be described with one word: handsome. Conclusion: when the evening comes, you want to meet both, the Ford woman and Ford man.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

New York. Prada Resort 2019

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So, resort 2019 season has started. After a very tedious show Chanel staged in Paris a few days ago (that ship standing in the middle…), Prada‘s collection in New York makes a bit more sense. The MET is just around the corner; the company tries to re-enter the U.S. market with a boom – all of that is quite understandable. Miuccia Prada went for her archives (again), giving us some 90s feels. Her famous ‘ugly print’ from the time was all over the mini-skirts and dresses, while the ‘I don’t care much’ attitude of the decade was perceived. Even, if at some points it all felt forced. Other than the bucket hats and padded trappers, I just don’t understand the impact of this outing. Well, maybe seeing a bit more of Prada on Instagram was the entire point (plus the few-minutes long Times Square livestream that surely had all New York eyes watching).

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

You Do You. Tom Ford SS18

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Wherever I look, I see a long feature about the importance and potential of Tom Ford. Business of Fashion did one recently. New York Mag had it in August, exclusively sharing bits on the designer’s work behind the spring-summer 2018 collection. All of the magazines praise Tom Ford for his work at Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent, for his venture in the film industry (like Nocturnal Animals) and most of all, his own brand with commercially succesful beauty line, men’s ready-to-wear and growing womenswear. Is Tom Ford’s PR working night and day, lately? Or maybe just in the year of 2017 the fashion industry decided to agree on one thing – Tom Ford is boss. And his fashion, season-to-season, wherever he designs, says you do you. Really, no else does Tom Ford as well as, gasp, Tom Ford.

There were rumours that Ford is planning to do a loud 90s revival – and that was certainly true. Backless jumpsuits, shoulder pads in denim, killer puchsia and lots of bling-bling were present, giving New York fashion week a glamorous kick-off. Don’t think it was nostalgic, as nostalgia in fashion often ends looking dusty and pretentious. That was a sleek line-up of ultra-glossy and great-body-demanding clothes, with no deeper meanings. That’s a collection that you look at with a relaxed, optimist eye at the beginning of the fashion month triathlon. Surely not like at a show of the last few days that you would confuse with Balmain and rather skip. But still, Ford is in a very, very good form, and what’s more, on his own terms.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.