After his over-the-top, kitschy-chic fashion show back in spring, Tom Ford’s spring-summer 2019 collection felt like a colour detox mixed with self-reflection. Black, white, beiges and pale lilac were the leading shades, while the entire line-up took us down the memory lane of Ford’s career. For a moment, we all experienced again his 90s momentum at Gucci, that was all about refined sexiness and confidence – words that match the designer’s current work with the same precision. To a surprise of many, there were as well references to the few year tenure at Yves Saint Laurent, the period that shaped Tom’s aesthetic into a more sublime, after-dark vision of women.
But back to 2018. Draped skirts with lace inserts; jackets and blazers made of fake crocodile leather; satin cocktail dresses and evening gowns with pony-hair details. Some of the looks are fit for goddesses of seduction, other for cosmopolitan bosses. This one all-leather look seemed to be taken straight out of Roxy Music’s cover that featured Amanda Lear. But no, in the end this collection wasn’t created with a dominatrix in mind, but for powerful women who want garments that look equally powerful. The menswear part can be described with one word: handsome. Conclusion: when the evening comes, you want to meet both, the Ford woman and Ford man.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.