Publication: Vogue Paris August 2018 Model: Adwoa Aboah Photographer: Alasdair McLellan Fashion Editor: Aleksandra Woroniecka Hair: Shon Make Up: Lynsey Alexander
So, what to expect from a designer’s final collection, especially after a 17 year-long tenure as a creative director and the person in charge for the brand’s business side? Well, pretty much anything. Christopher Bailey‘s last collection at Burberry was meant to be a blast. And there really are the reasons to praise the designer this season. “My final collection here at Burberry is dedicated to – and in support of – some of the best and brightest organisations supporting LGBTQ+ youth around the world. There has never been a more important time to say that in our diversity lies our strength, and our creativity.” Pride and optimism was reflected in everything, from the puffas to sweatshirts covered in raibow. The Rainbow check, the latest iteration of Burberry’s most iconic symbol and designed as part of Christopher’s dedication of his last collection to LGBTQ+ communities, featured throughout the show. It was nice seeing that a brand like Burberry, so established and all, goes for an important matter!
Still, I’m on fence with this collection. The capsule of reissued archive pieces from the 1980s and 1990s rereleased felt new to Burberry, but the idea is quite pinched from Gucci’s current bootleg obsession. In overall, the collection was more Alessandro Michele, than Christopher Bailey. There were some clear signs of Demna Gvasalia and Phoebe Philo inspired tricks there and there – like over-sized, Vetements-y hoodies or Céline-ish lace dresses and plastic bags. In other words, I think the label tried hard this season to be relevant and look 2018. Nevertheless, Bailey had his big, last word to say with the collection. Where will we see him next? The time will tell.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Although these are only the backstage images from the actual shoot, this steamy hot preview can’t be ignored. You might have already heard that Tim Walker was chosen by Pirelli to collaborate on 2018’s calendar. One thing was sure since the appointment became public – those wouldn’t be bombsell nudes, but twelve, extremely far-fetched visuals.
The casting is all-black and inovolves people from all walks of life. Designed by Shona Heath and styled by Edward Enninful, 2018’s calendar is all about the tale of Alice in (Walker’s) Wonderland. So, who plays whom? RuPaul is The Queen of Hearts, Lupita Nyong’o has the role of The Doormouse, Lil Yachty acting as The Queen’s Guard, Whoopi Goldberg portraying The Royal Duchess, and model Duckie Thot playing the titular Alice. There’s Thando Hopa (South African sexual offence lawyer turned model, who has albinism). There’s Puff Daddy (!). There’s Slick Woods and Adwoa Aboah. And there’s Naomi Campbell. “I’m the beheader: I chop people’s heads off. And I like it,” the supermodel declares. She continues, saying “this calendar is gonna be a historic calendar. It’s gonna go down in the history of Pirelli. It couldn’t be more balanced and diverse which is something we all strive for each day. And Tim, we love you, you’re a hero and this is gonna be the best calendar ever.” I love him to the moon and back too, Omi. Can’t wait to see the entire shoot!
Backstage photos by Alessandro Scotti.