You know, I’m rather on the fence about Pieter Mulier’s Alaïa. The brand’s contemporary creative director has a tendency to cover women in overworked constructions – something Azzedine himself avoided at all costs in his masterful work. Mulier did exactly that with the Gaudí-esque forms and alien-like tubes in his autumn collection, but for spring he shifted toward a more “less is more” approach.

The resort 2026 collection – his first “official” pre-collection, titled “Archetypes” and conceived as a more accessible entry into the Alaïa wardrobe – lands somewhere between these two extremes. There are moments of uplifting lightness, like a truly fabulous vivid-pink, long double-satin bias-cut dress that is “very easy to look at, extremely difficult to make.” There’s also an architectural, high-necked tiger-print coat that’s pure chic. But then come the heavy-looking jackets with armadillo hoods and over-styled layering that somewhat disturb the sense of zen. Meanwhile, the shearling jacket with a peplum recalls Phoebe Philo’s instantly sold-out piece from last season (not the first time Mulier has been seen taking notes from other designers).

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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