Italian Hands at Gucci

October 21, 2015July 27, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

Alessandro Michele redefines what’s Italian chic at Gucci. His Resort 2016, which is available in the chosen flagship stores, is a balance of eclecticism and traditional craftsmanship – the topic, that was neglected for several years in the fashion industry. And even though you might not appreciate the slightly kitsch impression that the collection leaves in its overall, you should admit – in detail, these clothes are treasures. Wherever you look, there is a tiny hand-embroidered swallow or a romantic floral embellishment. Or, it’s hard not to notice that each ring is made out of different, gold-pleated elements and precious stones. The head-pieces made out of Astrakhan fur are decorated with silk flowers, that from a metre-long distance look like real peonies. The effect of Gucci’s major revamp is concentrated on the details, that give the clothes an eccentric twist, a poetical mood – and I am still trying to figure out, how such major power-house as Gucci tackled the problem of making the brand feel like a niche label, of which main aim is not only the commercial strength, but also bringing back the beauty of fashion – importance of Italian craftsmanship.

The new vision of Gucci captured by Roe Ethridge for Another Magazine.

The details of AW15 & SS16 collections photographed by Federico Ferrari for Another Magazine.

A wardrobe of a glamorous, Italian lady – Via Montenapoleone.

Made in Italy. Gucci SS16

September 27, 2015January 20, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Breaking down Gucci‘s recent spring-summer 2016 collection is like reinterpreting every painting in a museum. Each look is totally different. And each has its own woman and story behind it. Seeing how Alessandro Michele revamps the house after Tom Ford’s over-sexualised female and Frida Giannini’s perfect ladies is really gripping. For his first summer season, Michele made embroidery his first privilege. Hundreds of embroidered, tiny sequins created cartoonish trompe l’oeil bows, frills and collars. One look with a bra and skirt was entirely constructed in this style – and if you are an observant person, you could notice adorable lady-bugs embellished on ties and parrots over-laying lace shirts. There is no better way to experience the craftsmanship of Alessandro’s vision as to see the newly renovated Gucci boutique on Via Montenapoleone. Here, you can touch the clothes from both autumn-winter 2015 and resort 2016 collections – each piece is absolutely different. A hand-embroidered bird on mink-coat lining; velvet flowers decorate the head-pieces; the tudor-esque rings are all about the phrase “the devil is in the details”. I totally agree with that in terms of Michele’s Gucci, and Italian fashion in overall.

The new designer of Gucci tipped his toes in Italian fashion history for this season – there were references to early Missoni’s lurex zig-zags and the bold 70’s of Italy. Michele said he has been thinking about the Renaissance and the 1970s specifically – both great eras for Italy in their own ways. Although this very bright collection was all about femininity (the ruffled dresses, the flower pussy-bows), it had a lot to do with punk. Biker jackets (of course, embroidered with roses), spiked killer-heels and sharp and mini-skirts were there too, during the fashion show. Gucci by Alessandro Michele is generally called “vintage” or “nostalgic“. But the designer totally disagrees with these two words. “It’s a big trip! Of course I am interested in personal style and quirkiness. There are things here that look vintage, but don’t really exist as vintage—it’s the illusion of it. I’m not nostalgic! I’d like to shake it up again.”

You can love or hate the new Gucci. Spring-summer 2016 might look too bold for some, if you look at the collection through thumbnails – however, one thing’s sure for both of the sides. The attention paid to the detail was missed for a long time in ready-to-wear seasons, just like the real splendour and beauty of Italian craftsmanship. And Alessandro Michele is pioneering it once again in 2015.

Men’s – Detournement. Gucci SS16

June 24, 2015June 24, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

“Detournement is the art of taking some parts of the past and using them in the present with a contemporary approach and away from their original contest” is what Alessandro Michele of Gucci said before his SS16 show for men. “I love to work with the past to translate the future,” explained Michele, and although his designs are certainly rooted in Gucci’s heritage (those horse-bit loafers, the green and red equestrian stripes, bee motifs and famous GG logos) they update the house’s codes in a way that’s unrecognisable, thanks to his desire of not wanting “to stay a prisoner inside of the brand.” There are many retro references, with suede jackets and wide collars adapted from classic silhouettes of the 70s, but there is, as Michele puts it, no room for nostalgia – his focus is on youth. “They really are the future – when someone asks me what the future is? The future is now, between us, between young people,” he says. Also, the dynamic, new creative director of Gucci has a truly amazing point of view on beauty for men fashion. “My idea of masculinity is beauty,” Michele said after the show. “If you want to be beauty you can be beauty how you want; it doesn’t mean that you are not a man or woman.” That is strongly visible in this collection – hand-made embroideries, royal looking textiles, tudoresque jewellery and that Italian “dolce vita” attitude towards life is felt all over these clothes.

As it is in Michele’s philosophy to have female models in his menswear collection, the mesmerizing robes and silk scarves were jaw-dropping for both genders. And even though, many of these clothes feel like out of this era, they are all looking far into the future. It is a great pleasure to have a peek at all that artisanal beauty and reflect on it in the same, poetic way. Maybe because Michele himself is a great poet?

Eclectic Girl. Gucci Resort’16

June 5, 2015June 5, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Yesterday’s Gucci show was not only a surprise due to its appearance in New York. It was intriguing. And Alessandro Michele knows that. The new designer, who left the sex-drived Tom Ford and Euro-sleek Frida Gianini behind, makes Gucci a brand, which is rather all about eclecticism and vintage. The word “eclectic” came up constantly when Michele was talking about the collection backstage. He also talked of “love” fuelling the collection, which incidentally appeared on a sweater in French –”aveugle par l’amour”. So hippie and optimistic, which is what Michele’s vibe is all about. “I’m inspired by a lot of things – from the street, antiques, vintage wardrobes. It’s impossible to explain the exact point of inspiration. It’s about being free to love, free to express, free to show who you are through the way you dress,” said Michele. “Luxury means that you show the way you dress with eccentricity. It’s almost like a new kind of jetset – instead of roaming around the world, you’re roaming with your clothes.” As you see, even the approach to luxury, which is up to now an essence of the brand, has changed.

But coming back to the venue matter. Gucci chose a gallery space in New York’s Chelsea, furnished with Persian rugs. As a remix of orchestral soundtracks started up, the garage doors to the gallery were raised up and the models walked in from the street, where outside Glen Luchford was shooting a film. And the street is certainly where Michele sees his eclectic cast existing. No wonder why the clothes might (or even should) remind you of Williamsburg’s thrift shops and Milanese flea markets, where the clothes are all about kitschy embroidery and cheesy patterns. But in case of Alessandro Michele and his mesmerizing Gucci affair, it was all about hand-made embellishments (the snake!), gold glitter on the shoes, soft lace and imperial Astrakhan jackets.

Although the collection might seem to have many overkilling details, I am happy Michele is in the game. I am a bit fed up with all that “ugly chic” and minimalism which is practically everywhere. I felt a lack of beauty, romance and that 70’s freedom in fashion for a while. However, the new Gucci delivers that in a very proud, brave way. Interesting how the retailers are going to deal with all that sheer artistry.

Amelie from Milan. Gucci AW15

February 26, 2015January 20, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

New day, new dawn. Alessandro Michele starts a new era at Gucci. Forget the hedonistic business woman from Tom Ford and Frida Gianini times. Rather than fancy yachts buyer and looking like a sex-bomb on a cocktail party at rich friend’s house, the woman of totally not-famous Alessandro Michele is a warm, poetry-loving girl who enjoys a walk in the forest. The ex-accessories designer of Gucci, Michele is in the business of ready-to-wear, and I’ve got really mixed thoughts about him.
First of all, the whole situation makes me think of Saint Laurent and Hedi Slimane – before, YSL had Stefano Pilati, who prefered sexy women of success. After a sudden change, Hedi Slimane, the ex-Dior Homme designer, came, and showed everybody his love to punk. I remember it like yesterday – everybody was disgusted with his scandalous AW13 which featured mohair cardigans, spiked boots and grungy, Zara-looking like babydoll dresses. And totally same thing happens at Gucci now. Frida Gianini, which made Gucci women feel very luxurious, is exchanged by Alessandro Michele. And this guy, which came nearly from nowhere, brings Amelie-like naive sheer dresses, fluffy fur babooschakas and Berets. Yes, it’s not punk, but it still feels defiant comparing to Gianini’s vision.
What can I say about the collection? The embroidery is magnificent. The shoes are good in their ugliness. The woman for AW15 makes me think of a vintage-loving person, which loves flea markets and her old granny fur coat. Although she likes showing her feminine side, she is not against androgynous looks. Rather than boasting with her GG logo, Michele’s girl sees eponymous luxury in her Tudor-esque rings.
It’s always hard to judge the debuting designer. In my opinion, we need to see more of Alessandro and what he can do for Gucci – but the first impression is not good or either bad – it’s truly confusing. This what we saw before at this heritage Italian house is a HUGE contrast to what the new days are going to be like. So, lets see what the future will bring.