New day, new dawn. Alessandro Michele starts a new era at Gucci. Forget the hedonistic business woman from Tom Ford and Frida Gianini times. Rather than fancy yachts buyer and looking like a sex-bomb on a cocktail party at rich friend’s house, the woman of totally not-famous Alessandro Michele is a warm, poetry-loving girl who enjoys a walk in the forest. The ex-accessories designer of Gucci, Michele is in the business of ready-to-wear, and I’ve got really mixed thoughts about him.
First of all, the whole situation makes me think of Saint Laurent and Hedi Slimane – before, YSL had Stefano Pilati, who prefered sexy women of success. After a sudden change, Hedi Slimane, the ex-Dior Homme designer, came, and showed everybody his love to punk. I remember it like yesterday – everybody was disgusted with his scandalous AW13 which featured mohair cardigans, spiked boots and grungy, Zara-looking like babydoll dresses. And totally same thing happens at Gucci now. Frida Gianini, which made Gucci women feel very luxurious, is exchanged by Alessandro Michele. And this guy, which came nearly from nowhere, brings Amelie-like naive sheer dresses, fluffy fur babooschakas and Berets. Yes, it’s not punk, but it still feels defiant comparing to Gianini’s vision.
What can I say about the collection? The embroidery is magnificent. The shoes are good in their ugliness. The woman for AW15 makes me think of a vintage-loving person, which loves flea markets and her old granny fur coat. Although she likes showing her feminine side, she is not against androgynous looks. Rather than boasting with her GG logo, Michele’s girl sees eponymous luxury in her Tudor-esque rings.
It’s always hard to judge the debuting designer. In my opinion, we need to see more of Alessandro and what he can do for Gucci – but the first impression is not good or either bad – it’s truly confusing. This what we saw before at this heritage Italian house is a HUGE contrast to what the new days are going to be like. So, lets see what the future will bring.