Mayfair Lady. Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood AW21

 For Andreas Kronthaler and Vivienne Westwood, one unintended consequence of lockdown was a passionate rediscovery of My Fair Lady. Combined with a timely refurbishment of their 1980s vintage couture store on London’s Davies Street, the result was a collection and video titled Mayfair Lady. “It’s an incredible place,” said Kronthaler of the area. “It’s full of history, and you can feel that it was once the center of the world’s most powerful country.” In the autumn-winter 2021 collection’s film, the couple and their talented cast (headed by Caroline Polachek!) showcase Kronthaler’s collection in and around the store, strolling giddily past the London streets. The collection is a joyfully haphazard collage of references (flower girl headpiece, professor’s robe, and so on) sprinkled within a typically anarchic Kronthaler context. Many of the pieces were upcycled, and the designer said his shapes were sometimes dictated by the scraps of fabric available. “We express ourselves in clothes when we dress up,” said Kronthaler in his press notes. Timeless truth.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

The Queen. Andreas Kronthaler Vivienne Westwood SS21

Vivienne Westwood is the queen, and Andreas Kronthaler loves to embrace that. In his homemade lockdown look book and film, Kronthaler gave Dame Viv such a powerfully Iron Lady coif he confessed that even he saw a passing resemblance. “But in the end the look we went for was more Raine Spencer,” he added over Zoom, referring to the British socialite. Perhaps it was the concentrated nature of this minimally staffed shoot – four models in all, shot by Kronthaler (who doubled as one of them) on his iPhone, with the intention of limiting as far as possible Westwood’s exposure – but it resulted in an especially intense expression of Andreas’ work to reflect that of his muse and wife. There was a lovely symmetry in the casting of Sara Stockbridge, a longtime Westwood model, who joined what looks like a fun day of dressing up. Garments to love include the Buy Local London map–print shirt worn by Stockbridge, VW in full “Acid Raine” mode, and Kronthaler in leggings and a wig that harked back to Flashdance. The clothing was as archetypally of the house as the expression was divertingly barking. Sustainable, sensational, confrontational, and uncontainable. And the look-book is a visual treat.

Collages by Edward Kanarecki.

Happy Earth Day!

Andreas Kronthaler + Vivienne Westwood autumn-winter 2017.

Happy Earth Day! It really should be everyday.

As Vivienne Westwood repeats: “Buy less. Choose well. Make it last. Quality, not quantity.” Support local businesses and artisans, recycle, reuse, spread awareness. Every (even small) action makes a change and helps support our planet and environment!

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

#InstaLOVE – October 2018

@katerinajebb

I’m an Instagram maniac and I openly confess that I spend too much time on filtering my feed. But it’s irresistible, when you have so many great accounts to follow! If you are ready for a dose of beautifully curated walls, inspiring photos and delightful shots – see my October recommendations!

@griegst / Fine jewellery coming straight from Copenhagen. Griegst was founded back in 1963 by the Danish goldsmith and artist Arje Griegst (1938-2016). His jewellery is sought after by collectors all over the world, and among his prominent customers is the Danish Queen H.M. Margrethe II. Arje was a goldsmith who thought like a sculptor. Inspired by the Baroque and the Orient, his free sculptural form was a contrast to rigid modernism. Using his own customised cire perdue techniques he was able to sculpt pieces that vibrate with sensual energy in an almost hallucinatory alternate universe. In his hands, solid materials were rendered almost in their liquid state across jewellery and collaborations on tableware, flatware, glassware, chandeliers and sculptures. Today, the brand continuous to prosper with its fantastic goods that are inspired with Arje’s original designs. Their Instagram account is worth following, because a) those pieces make you day-dream, and b) the archive throwbacks are G-O-R-G-E-O-U-S.

@ndreaskronthaler / No, it’s not a typo! That’s Andreas Kronthaler’s Instagram. If you will cherish a picture of Vivienne Westwood (his wife) in Tyrol, standing next to a bunch of festively dressed cows, click that blue button right away. I did.

@cbnvintage / Another one from Copenhagen. Caroline Brille Brahe, the model (you might still know her as Brasch Nielsen), opened up her vintage wardrobe and it’s all about tie-dye Moncler puffas (already snatched by Ana Kras), 90s Versace Jeans Couture, Yves Saint Laurent beaded jackets and rare Hermès t-shirts. Insta-shopping is welcome. If you’re in Copenhagen, make sure to visit her (and her friends’) pop-up store at Atelier September (which by the way is her husband’s restaurant).

@vinccioslo / It’s getting quite Scandi in here. Vincci, a multi-brand store from Oslo, certainly loves the old Céline (and all the delightful details that appeared in the autumn-winter 2018 collection). Their regular pics of the last pre-Hedi pieces are candy for the eye.

@katerinajebb / Lately, I’m truly obsessed with Katerina Jebb’s works. In 1991 she was involved in a car accident which paralyzed her right arm – to resolve the inability to hold a camera, Jebb began to employ machines to make life-size images, primarily self-portraits lying herself down  on a high-resolution scanning machine. Progressively, she diversified, posing subjects and objects, exploring the medium in parallel with the expanding possibilities in digital technology. Jebb proceeded to remove parts of the scanner to facilitate maximum extension of the subject. The duration of each passage of the scanner echoed early photographic principles, being seven minutes long, therefore demanding of the sitter to lie motionless for 28 minutes. She created some of the most captivating portraits: think Michele Lamy, Marisa Berenson (dressed in Comme des Garçons) and Tilda Swinton. Recently, Jebb was commissioned by The Met to photograph some of the most incredible pieces from “Heavenly Bodies: Fashion and the Catholic Imagination” exhibition. I caught myself on adding each of her posts to my ‘saved’ folder.

AND, if you want to follow one more account on Instagram… why don’t you follow, ta-da, @designandculturebyed?

NET-A-PORTER Limited

Mad. Andreas Kronthaler Vivienne Westwood SS19

ANDREAS KRONTHALER VIVIENNE WESTWOOD

Andreas Kronthaler has gone fashion mad this season, in a good way. There’s no wonder why his life partner, Vivienne Westwood, looked so enchanted by this line-up. The models had fun, too. Some, instead of walking, chose to ride on scooters and skateboards. Dree Hemingway wore a red Thonet chair hat. Other models, muscular and all, wore tight underwear made in collaboration with Yasmine Eslami. Draped dresses made out of tapestry-like textile looked especially fantastic. The more approachable pieces – printed t-shirts and sporty jumpsuits – were visibly there to back up all that playful rhapsody, but looked matching.

Slajd01Slajd02Slajd03Slajd04Slajd05Slajd06

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.