Yves is Pleased. Saint Laurent AW17

March 2, 2017March 2, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Anthony Vaccarello‘s debut collection for Saint Laurent, which we’ve all seen back in September, was a safe entrance to the house with sultry “party girl” look. However, his autumn-winter 2017 is so much more and it’s incredible in every aspect. First, the attachable sleeves-gloves hybrids, which were all about mega volume. Then, the highly covetable over-the-knee boots, whether in patent leather or heavily embellished. Cognac leather made everything, from the evening gowns to mini-dresses, look sexy, but far from vulgar. And when you’ve already thought that Vaccarello nailed it – the cable-knit sweater-dress (of course embellished with thousand rhinestones) was there, stealing the spotlight. In this collection, one can distinguish some of Anthony’s signatures, that we’ve already seen at his now-closed namesake brand. Faded denim, lots of leather, sharp silhouettes. But the designer managed to praise Yves Saint Laurent, without being too referential. The collection was inspired with YSL parties from the 80s – Vaccarello’s favourite period – and one specific look, which was slightly revamped. A black dress embroidered with a purple flower and green leaves was a 2.0 version of the same dress Yves did in the past, done in collaboration with Lessage. It was fantastic, just like the rest of the collection.

Saint Laurent

What’s Hot (6.11.16)

Image | November 6, 2016October 12, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Trip And Strip. Saint Laurent SS17

September 29, 2016September 29, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

The debut collection by Anthony Vaccarello for Saint Laurent is behind us, and we’ve got the first image of how the new creative director approaches the brand. We know Anthony’s aesthetic at his namesake label, which is mostly about leather, sexy mini-lengths. Hedi Slimane, Vaccarello’s predecessor, was exactly that during his tenure at Saint Laurent, with his sultry LA rock band attire. It was fairly predictable that some of the looks for Saint Laurent will be nearly undistinguishable from the Belgian/Italian designer’s own line. In other words, the label’s clients, who are less aware of fashion industry twists, won’t note a big change in the brand’s ready-to-wear range. At least, those boyfriend jeans, draped gold lamé dresses and classy le smoking suits were far, far away from Slimane’s frequently despised vulgarity.

The 80’s played a role in Vaccarello’s spring-summer 2017: it’s another brand which continues a venture into the topic of over-sized sleeves-of-mutton this season. Also, a big 1980’s moment appeared in the collection as an abundance of iconic YSL logo, designed by Cassandre back in 1961. It was everywhere, from the logo-shaped heels to zirconia embellished tights. The shoes stole the spotlight of the show, and Instagram adored this fashion moment – but is it that ground-breaking? Stefano Pilati did a very similar thing with accessories, when he was at helm of the brand.

Vaccarello previewed his collection and its “new” mood a few weeks before the presentation, by releasing Inez & Vinoodh’s mini-video starring Anja Rubik. Polish model, who’s privately best friends with the designer, trips and strips along the Seine to the tune of a melancholic song by Michelle Gurevich. Anja really does look like the song’s “Party Girl“, and it’s pretty visible that the cult of a nonchalant, chic Parisienne continues to be alive in the codes of Saint Laurent. Although the debut collection is a bit of a cliché, the pieces briefly convey Yves Saint Laurent’s style in a relevant way. It’s the time that will show Anthony’s strength as a designer of such brand.

What’s Hot (16.9.16)

Image | September 16, 2016August 18, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

#InstaLOVE – September 2016

September 1, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

@pierrot

I am an Instagram maniac and I openly confess that I spend too much time on filtering my feed. But it’s irresistible, when you have so many great accounts to follow! If you are ready for a dose of beautifully curated walls, inspiring photos and delightful shots – see my September recommendations!

@anthonyvaccarello / Anthony Vaccarello’s debut collection for Saint Laurent is highly anticipated, and here’s the first hint of what it might be like. A pink feather pinned with a SL tag. Are we about to see tons of chic, feather boas? Paris Fashion Week will tell.

@cryingdoves691 / A lot of Galliano for Dior, rare McQueen and cult Prada. And all kept in a moody, pastel-pink filter.

@florence / I love Florence Welch’ music as much as her style. Seeing her flea market finds and the way she wears them with Gucci clogs – pure pleasure. Also, just look at those denim flares above.

@bethhoeckel / Beth is a collage artist. Her work is intriguing, experimental, surreal – no wonder why Miu Miu chose to collaborate with her this season. Hoeckel’s reality subverting artworks perfectly fit the brands’ identity.

@pierrot / Yep, it’s September. I KNOW we should stop thinking of summer and start focusing on sweaters and puffas, but… Jean Pierrot’s photos of sun-kissed women in Cuba, Los Angeles or Croatia will bring so much sun to your feed!

AND, if you want to follow one more account on Instagram… why don’t you follow, ta-da, @designandculturebyed?