Down The Boulevard. Saint Laurent SS19

September 26, 2018September 27, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello. This season, it dangerously reminded you of Hedi Slimane’s YSL era, though – that LA, grungy-sultry look highlighted with extreme platform heels and lots of body exposure. Even the fake white palms standing in front of the water-filled runway (with a view at Eiffel Tower, of course) had a lot to say about Vaccarello’s current, American obsession. But other than the Hedi looks, we had a nearly all-black line-up, featuring completely sheer dresses and bathing suits. The leopard spots were very Yves as well, but made you think of another designer-predecessor of Vaccarello – Tom Ford. Where’s Anthony in all that? Well, his aesthetic is the love child of all Saint Laurent designers, whether you like it or not. Personally, I wasn’t thrilled with the collection, at all.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Party Girl. Saint Laurent Pre-Fall 2018

July 24, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

She’s a party girl – that’s quite clear once you look at Anthony Vaccarello‘s pre-fall 2018 look-book for Saint Laurent, and the attitude of the woman he envisions. That transitional wardrobe is meant to be classically YSL, but suited for contemporary times. We’ve got bohemian blouses, velvet Le Smoking blazers, leopard spots all over platform boots, studded leather miniskirts, gold lamé minidress – the list goes on. With the ‘Mick Jagger in Morocco’ look, wearing non-chalantly tied shawls and embroidered vests, Mica Arganaraz and Jamie Bochert are like a match-made-in-heaven for this look-book.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

The MET was Heaven.

May 9, 2018May 12, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

Maria Carla Boscono by Juergen Teller.

I very rarely write about such mainstream events as the MET Gala, but this year was awkwardly… good. A heaven’s gift, even. Noting this year’s Heavenly Bodies: Fashion and the Catholic Imagination theme, the guests had to give a thought to their appearance. Actually, it could have gone all wrong. But, surprisingly, some of the looks will become somewhat iconic! And that’s something to cherish. It’s truly pleasing to know that there are actors, musicians and celebrities that want to break the norms and dare to stand out on the red carpet – especially at MET, where boredom should leave right away.

I know I might look really late with this fellow ranking of the best looks, comparing to all the others in the industry (well, my final exams are in progress, so please do excuse me!). But still, posting this feels like a right thing to do.

How I love Frances McDormand in this Valentino haute couture ensemble. She looks so non-chalant, yet chilled out. And she smoked a cigarette, while wearing that magnificent headwear. Thanks God for Pierpaolo Piccioli, who really nailed it with that collection, and thanks God for Frances, a woman to adore and admire.

Well, Rihanna in John Galliano‘s major Maison Margiela pope fashion. No explanation needed I guess.

Anthony Vaccarello‘s Saint Laurent gang of dark angels that featured Zoë Kravitz, Charlotte Gainsbourg, Anja Rubik, Kate Moss, Mica Arganaraz and Charlotte Casiraghi. Hell yes.

Solange in Iris Van Herpen is somewhere between an alien dominatrix and a Goddess. Can be two at a time, why not.

Possibly, Greta Gerwig wanted to look elegantly invisible. Well, that dramatic The Row dress was the MET Gala’s most serene fashion moment, but in the best possible way. A nun goes to the ball! Love.

Susie Cave‘s velvet Gucci gown is pure romance, as if taken straight from a romantic era ballad.

I’m picky, I know. But those were my ultimate favourites. Amen.

Legs Only. Saint Laurent AW18

March 2, 2018March 4, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

What was expected to be Paris fashion week’s hottest ticket (especially, noting the last season’s fashion galore under the Eiffel Tower) resulted in a… very boring collection. I actually thought that Anthony Vaccarello is the right man for Saint Laurent, until I saw that tedious line-up of extremely short shorts, velvet blazers and all-black (or floral) mini-dresses. Was it a Hedi Slimane ‘appreciation’ collection? Well, that kind of style still sells best and resonates most easily with the current client. It really feels as if the important guys behind Saint Laurent cut the budget this season, as well. Other than the models’ long, long legs, Vaccarello’s autumn-winter 2018 collection has nothing much to talk about.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Laid Back. Saint Laurent Resort 2018

January 2, 2018March 2, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

With empty champagne bottles already in the bin and batteries (hopefully) recharged, here we are in 2018! And the first post of the year goes to Anthony Vaccarello‘s resort 2018 collection for Saint Laurent. The look-book, starring Lexi Boling and Hiandra Martinez, is a mix of all those New Year feels. From one side, it’s about glamorous, party dresses and boots covered with feathers. But from the other, it’s just the right amount of laid-back chic: denim, suede and over-sized fur coats. Vaccarello, who does contemporary Yves Saint Laurent with grace, knows that every great party demands a day, or two, of naps and looking ‘casual’.