We Need Drama. Undercover AW17

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Jun Takahashi is the unsung star of Paris fashion week with his extremely niche brand, Undercover. But this season, something shifted. It was impossible not to notice his autumn-winter 2017 collection, which might be named as one of the season’s best. It was pure fashion drama, taking the viewer to another world, another galaxy. Princess Leia buns and ethereal ball gowns reminded you of those memorable dresses that were worn by dames to parties. True, aristocrats were on Jun’s mind, but not only. To the tune of Thom Yorke’s music, models represented different characters, from soldiers in feather-trimmed armours to pagan ancestors wearing fur and ripped knits. So surreal. Magical. While other designers re-invent and rebrand this season, Takahashi wanted to present a past (or present, or future) society in integrated ceremony through his great love for theatrical costumes. Chapeau bas.

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History. Erdem AW16

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Erdem‘s winter 2016 collection looks back at the 30s and 40s, which seem to appear nearly everywhere this season, from Thom Browne to Simone Rocha. The dazzling, glamorous souls and tender seduction of the iconic actresses are retrieved in these gold fringes of the transparent silk skirt (pictured above). The man behind the brand, Erdem Moralioglu, approves Lauren Bacall and Gertrude Lawrence as the muses of the season, and their timeless, relaxed, yet ultimately chic attitude is expressed through the pretty floral dresses and meticulously embroidered gowns. But don’t get the Erdem woman wrong – she’s not made of sugar, but looks courageous wearing boots or flats with the aristocratic, English silhouettes of the inter-war elite. The designer tends to look back at the history, mixing references and moody colour palettes – but in the result, each season brings a new character.

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