Jun Takahashi is the unsung star of Paris fashion week with his extremely niche brand, Undercover. But this season, something shifted. It was impossible not to notice his autumn-winter 2017 collection, which might be named as one of the season’s best. It was pure fashion drama, taking the viewer to another world, another galaxy. Princess Leia buns and ethereal ball gowns reminded you of those memorable dresses that were worn by dames to parties. True, aristocrats were on Jun’s mind, but not only. To the tune of Thom Yorke’s music, models represented different characters, from soldiers in feather-trimmed armours to pagan ancestors wearing fur and ripped knits. So surreal. Magical. While other designers re-invent and rebrand this season, Takahashi wanted to present a past (or present, or future) society in integrated ceremony through his great love for theatrical costumes. Chapeau bas.