Frida Kahlo in Poznan

October 14, 2017October 14, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

There’s no need to introduce Frida Kahlo. The Mexican artist is one of the most important artists of the 20th century and up to now, her paintings spark controversy and debates. Her world, which was filled with both passion and pain, was reflected in her portraits, illustrations and collages. Whether affected by her suffer (caused by countless illnesses) or being under the impulse of love, each work by Kahlo paralyses the viewer with its elusive, reality-subverting power.

You can’t imagine how happy and proud I was when I discovered last year that an exhibition devoted to Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera (her husband, with whom she shared a very, very intense relationship) is arriving to Poznań, my hometown. The exhibition, Frida Kahlo & Diego Rivera. Polish Context also considers a quite unknown, yet close relation between the couple and Polish -born artists (photographer Bernice Kolko and painter Fanny Rebel). There’s a section of Nickolas Muray’s incredible photographs of Frida during her trip to New York; an entire display dedicated to the artist’s personal diary. If you’re planning a trip to Poznań, make sure to see mark the exhibition as a MUST – it would be a shame to miss this one-of-a-kind event.

CK Zamek in Poznań / 28.09.2017 – 21.01.2018

Photos by Edward Kanarecki

Dreams. Thom Browne SS18

October 6, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Thom Browne‘s debut womenswear show in Paris suggests one thing: sometimes, one collection is better than dozens of other designer line-ups. With his unique, artistic sensitivity for couture-ish ready-to-wear, Browne’s collections are not just about fancy dresses – they are entire spectacles, modern-day fairy-tales. For spring-summer 2018, the New York-based designer had “two girls dreaming of unicorns and mermaids, and all the things that little girls dream of” as initial point of departure. Indeed, there was an all-white unicorn on the runway, ‘worn’ by two models. A mermaid has also appeared, wearing a plaid coat and intricately embellished gown. But there were also fairies wearing feather-trimmed jackets, mischievous captain ladies, haunted widows and a Goddess of sun. There was something of a magical and mystical narration in the collection. It’s rare to have a walking skeleton (no, not printed, but delightfully embellished) in your fashion show. Or see a dress with an attached, silk octopus sculpture on the back, with its tentacles covering the model’s body. Another look was spun from spongy clouds of tulle, that trailed behind the model like sea-foam, as she walked down the runway.

I see no obstacles to call this is the most phenomenal collection of this Paris fashion week. Or even, of the entire season. I’m bewitched.

Collages by Edward Kanarecki.

Meet the Heroines. Prada SS18

September 22, 2017September 22, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

That wasn’t a fictional story of one specific superwoman, but an entire cast of heroines, who walked in Miuccia Prada‘s spring-summer 2018 fashion show. For the last few seasons, Prada is keen on portraying different types of women she wholeheartedly admires and respects. And this season, it was a full-celebration of women, who not necessarily have the wallets that afford Prada price-tags. Not only was the styling accessible – hand-printed coats with safety-pins attached (a funky-punky touch), thrift-store glasses or jacquard dresses worn over masculine shirt – but also the venue had a lot to say to women of all walks of life. The Prada show space featured art by a selection of female graphic artists – Brigid Elva, Joëlle Jones, Stellar Leuna, Giuliana Maldini, Natsume Ono, Emma Rios, Trina Robbins and Fiona Staples – and with the archive of Tarpé Mills, creator of the first female action hero. The comic-style mural presented different aspects of womanhood just as precisely as Miuccia’s new season clothes. From utilitarian nylon vests to collage-themed lady-like dresses, it was all about choices, choices and choices. The soundtrack, which changed its tune nearly every minute, had such unlikely and unexpected musical obsessions like Lana Del Rey, The Cure or Suzanne Vega. Even that aspect perfectly synchronised with the idea of an ever-changing mood – something Mrs. Prada can definitely admit in her aesthetic sense.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Experimental Dandy. Hillier Bartley SS18

September 22, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Sometimes, even the most costly production of a fashion show can’t be compared to one single look coming straight out of a silent look-book. In this case, I mean Hillier Bartley‘s beige tuxedo look. The jacket with shoulder-pads was slightly misshaped, giving it a cool, nonchalant manner; the pants were cropped and given a semi-Banana silhouette to keep it equally dandy. Styled with white socks and matching-colour pointy-toe shoes, that might be one of the best (and most striking in its actual simplicity) looks I’ve seen this season.

Katie Hillier and Luella Bartley have introduced their woman as a refined, but off-beat persona, few seasons ago – the story goes on, but this time in incredibly tempting shades of lilac, saucy red and dripping liquid gold. Zebra-patterned velvet frocks and handbags with lots of fringes were another clue of Bartley and Hillier’s love for a decadent kind of chic. The designers, known for rather loosely-fitted garments, seemed to be experimental about the forms of garments in their new collection – that’s why, they topped blazers and pants with fishnet to see how the silhouettes change and evolve. The effect? Bold.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Singular. Gareth Pugh SS18

September 19, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Gareth Pugh‘s spring-summer 2018 look-book (the designer has ditched the runway to focus on fashion, not the frame around it) is one of those incredible, but underrated collections, which you’ve got to digest after seeing first. It was a literal explosion of forms and silhouettes, whether we’re speaking of the red column gowns or cage-like armours that resembled a surreal, outer-skeleton. It’s a season of colour, but none of the designers used red in such a furious way. Those red-splattered garments (they hardly can be called regular ‘clothes’) were as equally dynamic as the fire print that covered the dresses. My favourite part of this collection is definitely the crinkled, metallic story. The effect? As if Gareth dripped the body in liquid gold and let it dry. Or simply packed it in shiny wrapping paper. But of course it was much more complex than that! The collection itself isn’t everything that Pugh has in offer this season. Together with the visionary photographer, Nick Knight, the designer directed a thrilling visual that could easily be called a very hi-tech horror with emphasis put on jaw-dripping clothing. Note, it’s very NSFW.