Mysterious Woman. Khaite AW25

February 10, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

At Khaite, Catherine Holstein offered a clearer stance on who her woman is (which wasn’t the case last season) – although her runway was dark and dimmed, as usual. Some things just don’t change. But at least for autumn-winter 2025, her ideas had shape and texture. Inspired by the enigmatic, elusive world of David Lynch and his mysterious heroines, Holstein clashed masculine notions with feminine sense for drama. All the leather and leopard-spot pony skin looked believable, just like the draped sheaths layered over shirts. In a way, Khaite isn’t about fashion novelty, but easy-to-digest styling and a sense of (fleeting) cool. This collection will certainly end up on the moodboards of many high-street brands in the upcoming months, from COS to Mango. And that’s not a bad thing.

ED’s SELECTION:

KHAITE Minnler Belted Coated Cotton-blend Trench Coat

KHAITE Cate Textured-leather Tote

KHAITE Jackie Wool-blend Cardigan

KHAITE Marfa Suede Ankle Boots

KHAITE Lauson Twill Maxi Skirt

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Women Of Flesh & Bone. Altuzarra AW25

February 9, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

Joseph Altuzarra is in his most delicious creative era… ever. Forget collections inspired with sunny, far-fetched destinations or film titles – thematic line-ups that (over)defined Altuzarra for over a decade. The New York-based designer now finds interest in personalities. Real ones. His latest outing, presented in his chic Woolworth Building headquarters, was dedicated to women of the Big Apple. The Lee Radziwills and Sarah Jessica Parkers, the Edie Sedgwicks and Ladies of Madison Avenue. Women of flesh-and-bone, who equally love a proper evening dress with a fringed big hat and a shaggy shearling coat worn as a dress, styled with heels and tights only. But if I had to compare this collection to a fictional persona, I would pick Nicole Kidman’s phenomenal portrayal of Babygirl‘s Romy – a New York businesswoman on a quest of self-discovery.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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This Is Real. Eckhaus Latta AW25

February 9, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

Finally, cool, honest, not-overworked and real clothes in New York. Eckhaus Latta delivers a collection of brilliant garments that feel lived-in – and you want to live in. Thick knits, sensual jerseys, rough leathers, flesh-revealing cuts. Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta acutely observe how their friends dress on the daily basis, and this collection sums up their notes. Obsessed with the Steven Meisel-ish headbands for the guys.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Feminine Energy. Colleen Allen AW25

February 9, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

Colleen Allen is a designer that brings hope to New York Fashion Week. Her autumn-winter 2025 lookbook is a delightful blend of what she’s already recognized for – curiosity for Victorian-era garments and a certain elusive, beguiling witchiness – and a new-found sensuality seen through a witty lens. The collection is modelled by the artist Kembra Pfahler, whose famous layered imprints of her buttocks on canvas inspired Allen. “It was like a fuck you way of referencing Yves Klein and how he used to utilize the female body as a paint brush,” she said, explaining her choice of blue in this season’s blue velvet coat-dress. In general, this collection had a thing to do with “a little bit of butt,” as the designer stated. The coats have an exaggerated back cut, offering playful peekaboo moment for a bum glimpse. This extremely talented designer is channeling a new, badass, feminine energy that fashion needs – through a female gaze.

In case you missed my interview with Colleen – here’s the link!

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Exuberant. Christopher John Rogers AW25

February 7, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

New York Fashion Week kicked off with an exuberant, yet mature return of Christopher John Rogers to the runway. He’s got a brilliant colorist sensibility – and knows how to serve beautiful, eye-catching eveningwear. Fitted to the upper thighs and blossoming below them into a full skirt, the striped dress that opened the show mixed chartreuse, burgundy, and coral. The unlikeliness of the combination made it all the more striking, and he returned to that formula for other looks as the show progressed. Stripes, his signature, played a starring role – on his knits and silk taffeta party dresses, and on trenches stitched with rows of different grosgrain ribbons at their hems. Each look from this runway made sense – and can be easily imagined on the streets and events, not only in New York.