Feminine Energy. Colleen Allen AW25

February 9, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

Colleen Allen is a designer that brings hope to New York Fashion Week. Her autumn-winter 2025 lookbook is a delightful blend of what she’s already recognized for – curiosity for Victorian-era garments and a certain elusive, beguiling witchiness – and a new-found sensuality seen through a witty lens. The collection is modelled by the artist Kembra Pfahler, whose famous layered imprints of her buttocks on canvas inspired Allen. “It was like a fuck you way of referencing Yves Klein and how he used to utilize the female body as a paint brush,” she said, explaining her choice of blue in this season’s blue velvet coat-dress. In general, this collection had a thing to do with “a little bit of butt,” as the designer stated. The coats have an exaggerated back cut, offering playful peekaboo moment for a bum glimpse. This extremely talented designer is channeling a new, badass, feminine energy that fashion needs – through a female gaze.

In case you missed my interview with Colleen – here’s the link!

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Exuberant. Christopher John Rogers AW25

February 7, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

New York Fashion Week kicked off with an exuberant, yet mature return of Christopher John Rogers to the runway. He’s got a brilliant colorist sensibility – and knows how to serve beautiful, eye-catching eveningwear. Fitted to the upper thighs and blossoming below them into a full skirt, the striped dress that opened the show mixed chartreuse, burgundy, and coral. The unlikeliness of the combination made it all the more striking, and he returned to that formula for other looks as the show progressed. Stripes, his signature, played a starring role – on his knits and silk taffeta party dresses, and on trenches stitched with rows of different grosgrain ribbons at their hems. Each look from this runway made sense – and can be easily imagined on the streets and events, not only in New York.

ED’s SELECTION:

Christopher John Rogers Bow-embellished Off-the-shoulder Twill Top

Christopher John Rogers Silk And Wool-blend Satin Barrel-leg Cargo Pants

Christopher John Rogers Strapless Grosgrain And Gathered Satin-trimmed Canvas Gow

Christopher John Rogers Oversized Striped Brushed Wool Sweater

Christopher John Rogers Striped Silk-faille Gown

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Fashion. Marc Jacobs SS25

February 4, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

Oh, Marc. Thank you for reminding us all about the absolute joy of fashion.

With his pre-NYFW, less is more-production show, the designer sparks bold, unashamed happiness. Bubbly silhouettes. Cropped proportions. Big sequins. Bigger than life ball-dresses and teenie-tiny cardigans. Lego colors. This is fashion that doesn’t take itself seriously – but is far from being non-sense. Inspired with legendary women, from Rei Kawakubo to Queen of Hearts, this is Marc Jacobs’ ode to courage, beauty and uncompromising hope in better tomorrow.

“With precious freedom we dream and imagine without limitation… not to escape from reality but to help navigate, understand, and confront it, exploring through curiosity, conviction, compassion, and love.”

Thank you.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Goth & Fit. Rick Owens AW25

February 4, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

This season’s Rick Owens man is both goth and fit. He will show off his muscular torso while wearing a crop-top with padded, Nosferatu-sih shoulders. Tyron Dylan, Rick’s muse, looked like the yassified version of Count Orlock. The elongated, supernatural look was omnipresent in the autumn-winter 2025 collection. This time, the designer was interested in the idea of essentials. Cropped shearling sweaters and coats in black were cut up to the base of the rib cage, while double-face wool caftans in cream were cut down to the knee. Skimpy wide-leg shorts were (sometimes) made secure with thermal long johns of a type Owens only became an evangelical fan of after moving from California to Europe. “It’s about, How can I get rid of stuff and make the stuff that I really need as special as possible?’ And that is a good exercise when thinking about making clothes in the world the way it is today.” It was also a good exercise in showing clothes that, once acquired, you’d wish never to be parted from.

ED’s SELECTION:

Rick Owens Satin Wide-leg Cargo Pants

Rick Owens Drain T Paneled Cotton-jersey And Crepe De Chine Top

Rick Owens x Moncler Appliquéd Wool And Cashmere-blend Balaclava

Rick Owens Cropped Bleached Brushed-cotton Bomber Jacket

Rick Owens x Converse Drkshdw Dbl Drkstar Canvas High-top Sneakers

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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French Men. Fursac AW25

February 2, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

Nobody understands French guys’ style like Gauthier Borsarello. Since his appointment in 2021, the designer – and avid vintage collector, just check his ReSee selection! – has worked relentlessly to redefine Fursac’s position in contemporary menswear. This season he presented the brand’s first runway collection: an utterly chic mix of great tailoring with seductive nonchalance (dialed up with unexpected details like yellow leather gloves or crotchet ties), so natural to Parisian men. Executed with the styling help of Imruh Asha, the collection plays with the style images of renowned Frenchmen: think Jacques Dutronc, Alain Delon, and the boys of Nouvelle vague.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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