Tangled Sensuality. Comme Des Garçons SS03

There’s this one Comme Des Garçons collection I just can’t stop thinking about. I might even say that spring-summer 2003 is my favorite Rei Kawakubo collection… ever. Of course I love and appreciate the garment-installations she’s presenting during Paris Fashion Weeks for over a decade, but I kind of miss that wearability she used to do so evocatively and sensually in the past. Back in 2003, the Japanese designer mused on decorating clothes without using any external embellishments. She wanted to achieve decoration that wasn’t superfluous – as if it was an organic part of the garment, not just sticking out from its surface. As a result, she extended the fabric of her cotton garments, tying and braiding the extra cloth to form bunchy plaits and rosettes. A bulky silhouette informed the collection: boleros, long skirts and tunics were all festooned with outcrops of chunky, tactile elements. But she also had “standard” clothes fused into the collection: very cool cargo pants with raw hems, t-shirts with the Filip Pagowski heart logo layered under “ripped” sheaths, and striking, beautifully tailored jackets with cascading lapels and open-backs. All that tangled up chic was also alive in the wigs by Julien D’Ys, which were stitched-up curls worn as crowns.

Need some Comme in your autumn wardrobe?

ED’s SELECTION:

Comme des Garçons Gathered Pleated Wool Midi Dress


Comme des Garçons Gathered Faille Midi Skirt


Comme des Garçons Gabardine Blazer


Comme des Garçons Bow-detailed Cotton-jersey T-shirt


Comme Des Garçons Bow-detailed Pleated Satin Midi Dress

 

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Jil Sander’s Cannolo Bag

Jil Sander is having one of the best bag games out there. From sleek shoulder bags to ultra-chic carryalls, the brand offers a range of delightful classics. Very delightful, as the season’s star is inspired with cannoli – the ultimate Sicilian dessert. During Carnival, the phallic-shaped cannolo becomes the token of desire. Traditionally, men would gift the treats to prospective lovers to show their affections, singing: Ogni cannolu è scettru d’ ogni Re… lu cannolu è la virga di Mosè (“Every cannolo is the sceptre of every king… the cannolo is the penis of Moses” – not very demure!). In case of Jil Sander, the cannolo takes a minimalist turn and looks like the future it-bag.

Here are my favorite Jil Sander bags you can invest in now! Thank me later.

ED’s SELECTION:

Jil Sander Cannolo Small Leather Shoulder Bag

Jil Sander Cannolo Small Leather Shoulder Bag

Jil Sander Leather-trimmed Raffia Shoulder Bag


Jil Sander Snake-effect Leather Shoulder Bag

 

Jil Sander Padded Leather Shoulder Bag


Jil Sander Mini Bamboo Leather Tote

 

Jil Sander Origami Padded Snake-effect Leather Clutch


Jil Sander All-day Textured-leather Shoulder Bag

 

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Thinking About Alber. Lanvin AW10

Lately I’m feeling very sentimental for the late Alber Elbaz‘s Lanvin. Maybe it’s also the anticipation for Peter Copping’s (hopeful) revival of the Parisian house. But I truly miss Elbaz and his incredible, unmatched approach to dress-making. The autumn-winter 2010 collection is one of my all-time favorite Alber for Lanvin moments. For day, it began with no-nonsense, clean silhouettes cut from matte stretch materials with a molded structure (see Magdalena Frąckowiak’s look!); dresses and coats were cut roomy in the shoulder, tapering to sensually clutch the hips. The eveningwear, consisting of simple jersey togas, was just so sublime. But with Elbaz, you always had minimalist ideas clashed with the joy of maximalism. The technical starkness of the collection was gradually steered away with the addition of chunky metal and rock-crystal jewelry, ostrich feather, sheer lace, and beaded spine-tracing zippers, building up to dynamic feats of diagonal pleating that crossed the torso in one direction and shot across the hips in the other. Dark, yet sensational glamour at its best.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Heatwave. Stella McCartney SS’2005

Lately I love going back to Stella McCartney‘s early collections. They are just so straightforward and simply chic. As the summer heatwave isn’t going anywhere for some time, here’s a throwback to Stella’s beachy spring-summer 2005 (which sometime ago I’ve unearthed in my “Summer of Jessa” newsletter post!). Here, the designer – who was still establishing her brand in Paris – played to her strengths: a smidge of vintage (think floaty floral chiffon dresses), a touch of lingerie (camisoles and bras used to good effect layered underneath tops or dresses), feminine tailoring (safari jackets worn over loose pants). And she made strong case for very-boho tiered skirts, letting them swoosh along the runway in white cotton muslin. Ah, simple times…

Inspired? Get a similar look.

ED’s SELECTION:


Chloé Ruffled Silk-georgette Blouse



Stella McCartney Corduroy-trimmed Organic Cotton-twill Wide-leg Pants



Castañer Chiara 80 Metallic Canvas Wedge Espadrilles

Sonia Petroff Dragonfish Belt



Sachin & Babi Sabrina Gown



Isabel Marant Aurely Embellished Bouclé-trimmed Cotton-twill Jacket



Stella McCartney Lace-trimmed Jacquard Halterneck Maxi Dress

 

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Gohar World (Surreal) Edit

Founded by sisters Laila and Nadia, Gohar World‘s surrealist tableware celebrates “time, tradition, and humour.” Each playfully shaped piece is designed in the label’s New York studio and crafted by family-owned ateliers around the world. Here are my favorite items from the brand’s line that will elevate any food-related celebration!

ED’s SELECTION:


Gohar World Set Of Two Pearl-embellished Cotton-lace Coasters



Gohar World Set Of Three Silver-tone Lemon Squeezers



Gohar World Hands Set Of Four Lace-appliquéd Cotton Napkins



Gohar World Seafood Fantasy 30-piece Dinner Set



Gohar World Hands On Host Faux Pearl-embellished Apron And Gloves Set



Gohar World Wrought Iron Egg Chandelier



Gohar World Swizzle Murano Glass Cocktail Sticks



Gohar World Host With The Most Metallic Apron And Pearl Jewelry Set



Gohar World Bow-embellished Satin Baguette Pouch



Gohar World Pumpkin Porcelain Tureen

 


Gohar World Sea Creatures Set Of Four Mother-of-pearl Spoons



Gohar World Set Of Two Silver-tone Dessert Coupes

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