Art of Maria Prymachenko in Warsaw

Maria Prymachenko (1909–1997) is an icon of Ukrainian art. Her oeuvre has helped shape Ukraine’s cultural heritage. The exhibition “A Tiger came into the Garden” at Museum of Modern Art in Warsaw is the first presentation of the artist’s work in Poland of such breadth. The gouaches shown here, from 1982-1994 period, derive from the private collection of Eduard Dymshyts, and are a selection from among hundreds of works by Prymachenko.

For over six decades, Maria Prymachenko created art in the village of Bolotnya in the Polesia region, midway between Kyiv and Chernobyl, an area she never left. She survived the Holomodor, the Second World War, and the nuclear disaster at Chernobyl, and lived to see an independent Ukraine. She was “discovered” as a folk artist in 1935 and hired as an embroiderer at the Central Experimental Studio at the Museum of Ukrainian Art on the grounds of the Pechersk Lavra in Kyiv. Her works were shown at the First Republican Exhibition of Folk Art in Kyiv in 1936, and then at the World Expo in Paris in 1937 and in numerous European cities, including Warsaw, Prague and Sofia. She was a painter, embroiderer and ceramicist, and an illustrator of children’s books. She became a professional folk artist. Starting in the 1960s, she led an art school in Bolotnya. She continued creating art until the end of her life.

Following Russia’s invasion of Ukraine, Prymachenko’s works have taken on particular relevance, in part due to their anti-war message. In 2022 the Local History Museum in Ivankiv, not far from Bolotnya, was burned down, although some of her paintings there were rescued. The Maria Prymachenko exhibition at MSN Warsaw is a continuation of efforts to promote broader knowledge of Ukrainian culture.

In her work, Prymachenko depicted the connections between humanity and nature, drawing on folk traditions of Polesia, rich in symbols and metaphor. She painted people, animals and plants in her everyday surroundings. Her images of the world built on observations of the everyday life of Bolotnya undergo a magical transformation—they do not so much portray reality as undergird it and exert a positive influence on its fate, casting a spell. One of the motifs in her painting is fantastic creatures and birds, both mythological and inspired by pagan beliefs.

Her characteristic bestiary, containing numerous depictions of “humanized creatures” in an archaic composition with heads forward and bodies in profile, comprises numerous elaborate allegories, often expressing moral judgments, mocking human vices, or celebrating the delights of everyday life.

Prymachenko’s recognizable style involves a decorative line, and flat, intense patches of colour. Initially she used watercolours, but in time only gouache (watercolours mixed with chalk). In her work, language is another transformational force. Prymachenko often gave her works poetic, descriptive titles, which sometimes help decipher the paintings, or serve as dedications or wishes, as well as modified quotations from folksongs (“I give sunflowers to those Who love to work on the land And love all people on earth; I give red poppies to people, So they won’t be no-good slobs, But love the holy land And work on it“).

The garden mentioned in the title of the exhibition represents nature, which coexists harmoniously with humans, and in exchange for their work gifts them with all its bounty, while the tiger symbolizes the mysterious, fantastic and wild (“The tiger came into the orchard And rejoiced That the apple trees have borne fruit, Apples aplenty“). It may also point to efforts to represent the element of danger. After the Chernobyl disaster, Prymachenko also created a series of works connected with nuclear threat and war (“Nuclear war – May it be cursed! May people not know it, And shed no tears!“). Through the power of her surrealistic imagination, sense of humour, and also a certain dose of optimism, her works are dominated by a humanistic message and a vision of harmonious coexistence of the human and non-human worlds. Prymachenko’s dream was that “people would live like flowers bloom.

Curator: Szymon Maliborski; co-curator: Eduard Dymshyts. The exhibition is open until 30.06.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Stimulating. Bottega Veneta Pre-fall 2024

Bottega Veneta has released a stunningly stimulating, pre-fall 2024 collection. It’s so evident that Matthieu Blazy found his groove at the brand: his last runway shows are delightful to the senses. But it’s the pre-collections that really validate whether a designer has formed their vocabulary for a house, and Blazy definitely knows what his direction is. While other brands try to propose total looks and stay in one aesthetic lane, the Belgian designer rather pursuits the idea of style that’s diverse and truly authentic. Bottega Veneta isn’t a brand that intentionally creates Instagrammable products – even though social media is increasingly raving about Blazy’s take on the brand. People are catching up with his celebration of humanity which is conveyed in the striking artisanship Bottega stands for.

For pre-fall, “the initial talk I had with the team was what would’ve been the ready-to-wear of Bottega when they started to make the bags in the late ’60s and ’70s. Of course, the idea was almost to work on something anachronic – we don’t want to go too literal, it was the idea of a modern time traveler.” The development process involved lots of photo research, including in old Interview magazines – “Andy Warhol loved Bottega,” he explained – to see “how people layered and mixed and matched.” It led to results like the suede skirt layered over suede pants, and the trim crewneck and striped collar shirt tucked belted gray jeans. The spirit he was channeling was “bourgeois, but decontracté,” he suggested, pointing to a checked button-down worn with a leather bomber and a khaki twill pencil skirt, and another checked button-down with a full skirt. There is much more to restlessly drool over in this lookbook: the pastel pant suits, the colorful suede intrecciato separates, the homoerotic-coded bandana bag, and a vibrant horizontally striped knit dress with the nubby pile of a carpet. Each piece is a wearable, meaningful artwork – that might be the ethos of Blazy’s Bottega Veneta.

Need a Bottega wardrobe fix?

ED’s SELECTION:


Jodie Mini Knotted Leather And Shearling Tote

Printed Leather Straight-leg Pants



Canalazzo Striped Intrecciato Leather Pumps



Printed Denim Shirt



Layered Cotton-blend Poplin And Bouclé Shirt



Small Solstice Shoulder Bag



Jacquard Feather Midi Skirt

 

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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The Great. Ralph Lauren Pre-Fall 2024

This Ralph Lauren collection had to grow on me for a moment. But when I saw Anok Yai in her finale look, consisting of a cowboy hat and stunning body-skimming sequined gown, being applauded by the all-American designer – who himself wore a blue western shirt, a pair of well-worn jeans and grey New Balance trainers – I was like “wow, this is it“! The pre-fall 2024 collection, which Ralph presented a couple of days ago in New York, is a reminder that he’s a great designer. One of the greatest. A living legend. “The woman I design for has a beauty that comes from an inner confidence,” he noted in his press release. “My collection is inspired by that woman, her sense of timelessness, her individuality – a style that is forever.” The show’s opening song, Billy Joel’s “Just the Way You Are,” seemed chosen to call attention to that constancy, as did the first model Christy Turlington, whose career began in the 1980s on Lauren’s runway. Turlington wore neat tailoring, a tie tucked into the waistband of her trousers, with an RL 888 leather tote in the same shade of buff gray as her clothing. Neckties and power suits were recurring sights on the autumn runways; for Lauren they’re not seasonal affectations, but rather pieces that he’s returned to over the years, sharpening and fine-tuning them. City sophistication and red carpet drama are essential parts of his repertoire, as well. These were represented by a chunky cardigan and cocktail dress combo (so good), the pinstripe jacket he threw over a silk charmeuse shirt and long skirt in gunmetal gray. Yes to all that, forever.

Here are a couple Ralph Lauren classics I fancy a lot…

ED’s SELECTION:


“Ralph Lauren: A Way of Living” Book



Driss Distressed Straight-leg Jeans



Nancie Cotton Poplin-trimmed Floral-print Silk-gauze Shirt



Fringed Leather Jacket



Niles Strapless Bow-embellished Velvet Gown



Gregory Double-breasted Satin-trimmed Velvet Blazer



Cotton Straight-leg Pants

 

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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50/50. Julie Kegels AW24

I wrote about Julie Kegels back in 2021 when the Belgian designer released her masters collection titled Supper Club. Now, the The Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp graduate is back with her first collection under her eponymous label, which she presented during Paris Fashion Week in the beginning of spring. “50/50” is a proper introduction of Kegel’s talent to the fashion world, as it reflects her aesthetic and her brand’s off-kilter style. Blending contemporary elegance with a playful flair, the ready-to-wear debut “means business up front and party in the back“, as Julie sums it up. Above-the-knee granny socks paired with a provocatively translucent back; wool skirts dancing with shortened denim rears; serious pinstripes mingling with lively floral motifs. Julie’s creative process revolves around fully embracing fashion’s transformative power to craft her unique universe. In this spirit, accessories – jewelry, bags and shoes – harmonize elements from the past and present. The designer skillfully weaves romantic, old-world lace patterns into the collection using the last thermoforming techniques, resulting in contemporary, wearable masterpieces. Enhanced by a blend of quirky preppy cuts, embossed florals, and trompe l’oeil knitwear, the collection breathes a new life into timeless designs and solidifies Kegels as a rising star in the fashion realm.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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New Carven

Carven, founded in 1945 by Madame Carven, has finally found a designer that can navigate it in the contemporary times: the hyper-talented Louise Trotter. Her Carven debut collection is one of the biggest highlights of this season. Ahead of her spring-summer 2024 fashion show in Paris, Trotter had voiced her desire to start the brand anew. She indeed delivered her promise, but that doesn’t mean total erasure of the brand’s identity. In its history, Carven was known for distinct, hourglass silhouette. The British creative director references it throughout the new offering via powerful shoulders and nipped-in waists. Throughout the collection’s looks (styled by Suzanne Koller), the designer redefines timeless wardrobe essentials: cinched trench coats, transparent white shirts, elegant black dresses, all contrasted with playful details like over-sized leather poach bags, vibrant shades of sky-blue and mint-green, or beaded embroideries. The new Carven delivers a fresh layer to the eternal myth of Parisian chic, being far, far from a cliché.

Here are my favorite pieces from the collection, which you can shop now!

ED’s SELECTION:


Striped Tech-shell Shirt



Organza Midi Skirt



Strapless Twill Maxi Dress



Oversized Satin-twill Hooded Jacket



Cotton-poplin Maxi Skirt



Oversized Cotton-jersey T-shirt



Satin Shorts



Double-breasted Satin-trimmed Crepe Coat



Wool Polo Top



Stretch-jersey Leggings



Cotton Waist Belt



Leather Mules

 

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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