If you ask Natacha Ramsay-Levi to define her own style, the answer won’t be as straightforward as you would expect from a designer. “I admire people who have a uniform, but I’ve never found mine and I probably never will because I love fashion’s diversity,” she explained. Pre-fall 2018 is Natacha’s second collection for Chloé, a female-loving French maison, and it already feels that even if she doesn’t have an arbitrary ‘look’ that has to end up in the stores, she feels here like at home. And that’s good – thanks to that, the creative director’s work has a sense of easiness. What we discovered about Ramsay-Levi in her debut is that she has a soft point for jaw-dropping boots and whimsical jewellery (those pieces smoothly transit into the autumn days). Here, it’s a strong game of cognac leather coats, shirt-dresses and 70s blouses. Also, the designer wisely does the horse-rider style that’s distinctly Chloé, whether we’re speaking of the tiny horse prints on bags or wool capes. Although white socks tend to get on my nerves after 2017’s Vetements obsession, the way Natacha pulls them off in her refined pre-fall makes you wonder, whether luxe-y athleisure is back.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Milan is in the spotlight for the last, few seasons – it’s the refreshing time, when the big houses are revisited by younger, talented designers who are likely to make the brands more commerce-wise, and contemporary. Although this can’t be fully said in case of Alessandro Michele at Gucci, who looks back at the 16th century art and 70’s legacy, Massimo Giorgetti at Emilio Pucci totally matches this description. His runway debut in September was slammed by the critics, as it felt too busy with confusing embroideries and senseless layers. However, the autumn-winter 2016 outing is much better, and not only because the designer listened to his own, creative instincts – it reflects the Pucci soul, but in today’s world. Originally, Emilio Pucci focused on lounge-wear, rather than on athleisure – but Massimo smartly touched the topic of skiing. A score in the bull’s eye, if speaking of all the zip-neck velvet pullovers and colorful après-ski pieces. Really, the skiing market is a sad place in the fashion industry, and by showing a collection filled with lovely winter wear, Pucci surely gains a clientele for the next season in this field. This collection also proves that Giorgetti feels more freedom, when using the signature, Pucci kaleidoscope prints – they are playfully exposed on his experimental silhouettes we know from his namesake label, MSGM.