Leisure and Athleisure. Emilio Pucci AW16

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Milan is in the spotlight for the last, few seasons – it’s the refreshing time, when the big houses are revisited by younger, talented designers who are likely to make the brands more commerce-wise, and contemporary. Although this can’t be fully said in case of Alessandro Michele at Gucci, who looks back at the 16th century art and 70’s legacy, Massimo Giorgetti at Emilio Pucci totally matches this description. His runway debut in September was slammed by the critics, as it felt too busy with confusing embroideries and senseless layers. However, the autumn-winter 2016 outing is much better, and not only because the designer listened to his own, creative instincts – it reflects the Pucci soul, but in today’s world. Originally, Emilio Pucci focused on lounge-wear, rather than on athleisure – but Massimo smartly touched the topic of skiing. A score in the bull’s eye, if speaking of all the zip-neck velvet pullovers and colorful après-ski pieces. Really, the skiing market is a sad place in the fashion industry, and by showing a collection filled with lovely winter wear, Pucci surely gains a clientele for the next season in this field. This collection also proves that Giorgetti feels more freedom, when using the signature, Pucci kaleidoscope prints – they are playfully exposed on his experimental silhouettes we know from his namesake label, MSGM.

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