Abstract, but Embroidered. Valentino AW14

March 5, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Starting with 60’s abstractive prints, progressing with birds, then with chunky sweaters and ending with butterflies, hearts and flowers… That was a very interesting twist for the house of Valentino. But was it necessary? I mean, the clothes were fantastic (that leather cape is my favourite). But so many themes were moved in this collection, that I got lost. It was somewhere between red geometrical patterns and Haute Couture embroidery. And this last gone with an embroidered heart was totally taken from another fairy-tale! That evening dress made out of butterfly tapestry is impressive. But it’s kind of not matching here. So what was the main idea? The new abstraction? Or the surreal beauty? I am still brain-storming that with myself…

White Noise by Repossi

March 5, 2014August 11, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Gaia Repossi, the creative director of Place Vendome’s jewellery house, Repossi, creates simple, but beautiful collections. The recent one, called White Noise, is full of lazy gold curves, delicate silver polishes and beautiful purple rhodium that was introduced last year. With the classical “berbere” ring re-edition (once it was more straight!) the collection seems to look luxurious even without a huge amount of gems- although there were lots of diamonds, as usually. But still, Repossi’s magic is kept in the simplicity and detail… and White Noise is definitely my one of the “curvier” beauties created by Gaia.

Coco’s Intermarche. Chanel AW14

March 5, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Karl Lagerfeld definitely starts to have more fun at Chanel than serious work process. Maybe that’s good… But this time the Grand Palais changed to a huge super market, full of Eau de Chanel, Jambon Cambon ham, Coco cereal, Pink Tweed champagne and CC rugs… the models wearing sporty sneakers and bright clothes, were simply wandering around the market, buying food, ketchup and other daily stuff. But of course wearing Chanel! The idea is really funny! If every women could afford Chanel, then they would buy it even in grocery stores… talking of the clothes, nothing new came across the runway. Strong pink verses gray tweeds. Embroideries looking like camellia flowers and of course the shoes. That were in reality embroidered Chanel trainers that looked like Nike… and let’s not forget the bags. Packed in foil to be 100% fresh or carried in shopping basket? Your choise.

Alex Turner. Saint Laurent AW14

March 4, 2014March 4, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

It’s the fourth Hedi Slimane collection for Saint Laurent… And it doesn’t work on me. It was a disaster. It had something to do with punkish AW13- but that one was more chic, more stylish. And this? Inspired with the rock ‘n roll star Alex Turner, the collection was really trashy. Like if somebody went inside the wardrobe of 10 year old girl who tries to me emo but in reality she loves pink and glitter. Now, Hedi will tell us it’s all so couture and atelier. But why should you do couture on something that looks even worse in that version? The AW14 was meant to be rock ‘n roll- yep, it was, but for a school girl. A mature women won’t wear those pink sequinned boots or one of those messy parkas… Fashion must be fun and experimental, but not passe.

Furry Furs. Sacai AW14

March 4, 2014August 11, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

The furs were furrier, collars stood up higher, and the trompe l’oeil twists were even more head-spinning than usual. That was how Sacai for AW14 felt like. And, yes, it was fantastic. Those amazing winter jackets with som much fur and leather! Everything felt soft and at the same time sharp and vibrant… This aviator jacket with over-sized shirling worn by Edie Campbell is a wish for winter skiing blast. And those boots… those flattering skirts… it was all fantastic. Surely my favourite collection of season, if talking of perfect ski-in-style time…