There is something truly unique about MMC Studio, Polish label found and designed by Ilona Majer and Rafal Michalak. They do fashion, or rather an idea of modernistic clothes, made using traditional techniques and materials. Fur and laser-cut lace are just few examples. For AW14 collection, the duo brought to the collection a portion of proportion-fusing silhouttes (thermic scarves vs. over-sized coats) and lovely boots in magnetising white and gold colours. Their attitude and creative approach feels really fresh on the Polish fashion scene, however they already have a strong vision and a fine client base. And just like Phoebe Philo of Celine, Ilona and Rafal are very open-minded influencers of fashion (but so far, only in Poland). Why? Well. Just look at these shearling jackets and fluid-like fluocentic skirts- they are seriously cool, aren’t they? And very wearable and pretty much affordable. Oh, and soon something special is coming up with MMC’s key piece!
AW14
Faustine Steinmetz
The world of denim, you’ve got a problem. I introduce you to Faustine Steinmetz. In her label, each fabric is solely handwoven by one person using one of our traditional handlooms.
And, each piece is meticulously made by hand, with some pieces taking over a week to weave. “In our East London studio we spin, dye and weave all our own fabrics. We reproduce iconic pieces, the kind everyone has or has had in their wardrobe at one stage, except we make them all by hand.” Faustine Steinmetz creates and designs denim which isn’t really denim- it’s a new apparel vision, but on upper level. For AW14, we’ve got trousers which visually look like jeans, tartan dresses and lovely tops. Thoughts?
Ania Kuczynska AW14
As you might now, I am really in love with Ania Kuczynska’s designs. Her Warsaw-based label, which is the most coveted in Poland, is a beautiful mixture of nonchalance and minimalism. And, oppositely to other Polish designers, Ania is not concentrating on the so-called “sponsored wall” or stars which should be invited for the show. No. For her, the most important are clothes and atmosphere, which is usually, modern and elegant. This time, for AW14 season (yep, sounds strange while the SS15 collection round have just ended), Kuczynska took us to the iconic Bristol Hotel, where she presented a dark, elusive collection full of sheer dresses and heavy, floor sweeping coats. The clothes, which had feminine, but simple cuts, reminded the Night Porter silhouettes. The name of this mysterious collection, LAVA, was possibly all about the fluid-like heaviness of the dark materials, while the quiet stars felt like a good way of having a dreamy night. Big bravo for this mesmerising collection because it (just like the whole concept of the label) truly out-stands the Polish fashion scene. Backstage photos via i-D Poland.
Look Du Jour: Poncho Days
The Best of AW14
My number one this season is Haider Ackermann. His beautiful fall was dark, elusive and very Parisienne. Models wore masculine coats and trousers, slim maxi dresses, over-sized shirts and leather jackets. This collection is the quintessence of chic.
Celine had the cool non-chalance in it. Phoebe Philo brought us fur muffs, kimonos, over-sized tunics and sleek coats, making the collection extremely casual with these fabulous, patent leather clogs. As usually, it’s one of my favourites.
Tibi from New York had the best ponchos of the season! Styled with black mules, Amish hats and black midi skirt, the label had one of the most great looks in the whole season. And many other pieces are still having a spotlight…
Dries Van Noten was all about stripes, colour and florals. It had a lot of coolness in it- a midi skirt worn with a orange skirt was never so interesting and sophisticated!
Miuccia Prada as usually brought Prada the most outstanding pieces of the season. Shearling jackets, cricket v-neck sweaters, Bauhaus inspired heels, monkey fur dress, bags with chains… and many, many more.
I have a special place in my heart for that Acne collection. It’s fresh, Scandinavian vibe and tribal printed culottes are simply amazing. And of course the exaggerated hats! You want get a cold wearing one of them, that’s a sure thing!
Louis Vuitton has Nicolas Ghesquiere right now, and his debutant collection was simply it. 40’s & 60’s fashion come back with huge steps. And all these boots are a must-have, just like the Petit Malle clutches.
Yohji Yamamoto’s winter collection is the most unwearable and most fantastic of all. The cocoon coats with those hand painted manga illustration are not clothes any more, but art.
N.21 by Allesandro Dell Acqua was very Italian. It has three key pieces- a cozy, wool sweater, an embroidered, midi skirt and pointy polished flats. And nothing else.
The relaxed Marc Jacobs collection was my favourite from New York. It was all head in clouds, with these pastel colours, v-cuts, solemn and pale faces of models and Jessica Lange attitude.
These were my 10 favourite AW14 collections… and on the 4th, officially, the NYFW starts with SS15! Yay!














































