Elegance. Haider Ackermann AW17

March 13, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

With a critically acclaimed debut collection for Berluti, Haider Ackermann‘s autumn-winter 2017 collection was a nothing to add, nothing to take away line-up. Although the designer seems to distance himself from earlier love for spontenous draping around the body, his new collection is as intriguing as usual. And it was all about black (with hints of dark blue and white). From leather slim-fit pants and knee-lenght boots to fur inserts and desirable coats, Ackermann decided to show his affection for daily essentials in the most poetic colour of all. Don’t expect something new this time around. Instead, appreciate Haider’s wearable, dark elegance.

We Need Drama. Undercover AW17

March 12, 2017March 12, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Jun Takahashi is the unsung star of Paris fashion week with his extremely niche brand, Undercover. But this season, something shifted. It was impossible not to notice his autumn-winter 2017 collection, which might be named as one of the season’s best. It was pure fashion drama, taking the viewer to another world, another galaxy. Princess Leia buns and ethereal ball gowns reminded you of those memorable dresses that were worn by dames to parties. True, aristocrats were on Jun’s mind, but not only. To the tune of Thom Yorke’s music, models represented different characters, from soldiers in feather-trimmed armours to pagan ancestors wearing fur and ripped knits. So surreal. Magical. While other designers re-invent and rebrand this season, Takahashi wanted to present a past (or present, or future) society in integrated ceremony through his great love for theatrical costumes. Chapeau bas.

Sainte Nitouche. Vanessa Seward AW17

March 11, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Sainte Nitouche. “It means coy.” Vanessa Seward explained backstage of her autumn-winter 2017 fashion show. “Nice, but naughty“. That sign was on one of her ultra-chic t-shirts, worn over a delightful, floral shirt in indigo. With one boutique in Los Angeles, one in London and three in Paris, that’s evident that Seward’s style appeals to women. This season,the designer went Yves Saint Laurent-like glam: voluminous fur coats, smoking jackets and feminine midi-skirts were the show stoppers, just like beige turtlenecks. Vanessa Seward isn’t a designer who wants to revolutionize fashion, but she isn’t interested in temporary hype neither. Her clothes are classic and French, ignoring the fact that it sounds like a boring cliché. Believe me – it’s far from boring, but rather seductive. And easy. That’s why women across the world feel so affectionate about Seward’s brilliant pieces.

In the Dark. Loewe AW17

March 11, 2017March 11, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

In a completly darkened venue, Jonathan Anderson presented his autumn-winter 2017 collection. But darkness doesn’t neccesarly mean ‘dull’ for the creative director of Loewe. Quite opposite: Anderson sent down a line of sublime and feminine dresses, whether in pastel pink polka-dots or with shoulder-exposing sleeves. Then, those haphazard, yet elusive details that always catch one’s eye at a Loewe show: toast print on a hat, a kitty cat handbag. Trompe l’oeil effect in a number of his clothes was, just like the venue, an intriquing game with the viewer. “The collection is a continuation. Where will she go next? How does she survive?” If wearing a Loewe rabbit fur coat is the answer, I’m totally fine with that.

Orient. Christian Wijnants AW17

March 10, 2017March 10, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

In his autumn-winter 2017 fashion show, Christian Wijnants celebrated the idea of a world with no borders. Not being too referential about the orient, he and his in-house studio developed one-of-a-kind prints which had a lot to do with traditional paisley and Persian rugs patterns. A brilliant remix of oriental rhythms and booming beats were another clue of the designer’s inspiration. However, the styling of those flowing maxi-dresses and skirts was purely European. In bold colours of orange, green and purple, the Belgian designer focused on the technical side of his clothes: the pleats were made of polyamide to keep the silhouette, while the sweaters were of highest quality Alpaca and other yarns to satisfy a Wijnants client for years. At the Le Marais showroom, to see and touch the clothes, I’ve spotted that the python boots in yellow were the star among the buyers. No wonder why.