Interstellar. Aalto AW17

February 28, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Paris-based designers always had a thing for the outer space – for instance, take Paco Rabanne’s and Andre Courrèges’ cosmic fashion from the 60s and 70s. Those designers dreamt of fashion shows being on held on the moon; they wanted their women to walk down the streets in chain-mail dresses or white, patent-leather mini-skirts. A new wave of designers is moving through the French capital, so do different motifs and reference become refreshed. Tuomas Merikoski of Aalto took his models to a space odyssey, dressing them in distorted duvet jackets and nebula-printed dresses. Some of the looks were truly innovative, like the intriguingly draped dress-shirt hybrids, while others well reflect contemporary style of many designers (suits with random patches and variety of turtleneck combinations might be seen on nearly every single runway this season). Although Aalto’s vision of the ‘future’ wardrobe isn’t as far-fetched as Paco’s, it definitely fits today’s fashion norms.

Stangeness and Charm. Marni AW17

February 27, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Francesco Risso is Consuelo Castiglioni’s successor at Marni, and yesterday we’ve seen his first collection for the brand’s womenswear line. He used to work at the design studio of Miuccia Prada, so no wonder why off-beat femininity is rooted in his aesthetic; leading Marni, Milan’s most avant-garde house, means that he needs to communicate the way Castiglioni did. Mixing contemporary with old; unconventional prints (most likely, really bold florals) and strangest textiles; experimenting with the garment’s silhouette. In his autumn-winter 2017 collection, Risso checked all the points with success, sending a line of models sashaying in synthetic, fluffy furs, colourful raincoats and heavily sequined dresses (best in the brightest shade of turquoise you’ve ever seen). But Marni is also known for its architectural approach to footwear, whether we’re speaking of platform sandals or ornamented heels. Francesco achieved the ‘beautiful ugliness’ with mid-length, patent boots, elevated by fur sticking out at the top.

Resist. Missoni AW17

February 26, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

At the end of the show, the models and entire Missoni family marched down the runway wearing knitted pussyhats. That was a clear nod to the protests that took place across United States in the last months and it proved once again that fashion reflects on global events and situations. There was a beautiful sense of unity felt in the collection, as Angela Missoni, the brand’s creative director, concluded the show with a powerful speech. But that’s not the end of Missoni’s humanitarian aims – some proceeds from the collection are going to the American Civil Liberties Union and the UN Refugee Agency. Respect. Other brands, take notes. If speaking of the collection, it was a celebration of the brand’s knitwear heritage. But also, it was filled with vibrant colours and arty patterns – something we all need in troubled times.

Relevant. Jil Sander AW17

February 26, 2017February 26, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Who would have thought that Rodolfo Paglialunga finally finds his niche at Jil Sander? Sadly, just at the moment, when he’s rumored to be leaving the brand. Hopefully it’s not true, because his autumn-winter 2017 collection is his best outing to date. It’s filled with the season’s best duvet outerwear and voluminous suits. Yes, we’ve seen them elsewhere, but those two match Jil Sander’s codes well, making the brand relevant. And who doesn’t love a power blazer? An ultimate business partner.

I’m a Woman. Prada AW17

February 24, 2017February 24, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Miuccia Prada is a woman. And she celebrates every aspect of that fact in her autumn-winter 2017 collection. Like an over-sized room of a teenager, the show’s venue was covered with film posters featuring female characters, while the guests sat on beds, instead of chairs. This room wasn’t just a room – it summed up a woman’s life, her experiences, desires, morals. Whether that was participating in Communist marches in 70s Italy or being a little girl who wanted to dress like a glamorous Milanesa, Prada‘s life is like a gripping book. But the concept wasn’t about her. It rather praised women she knows, she admires. Their assertiveness, point of views, femininity and approaches to life. Whether dressed in candy-pink dress with ostrich feather inserts or a boyish corduroy suit. Hand-knitted scarves, biker hats, woven bras, sea-shell necklaces – those pieces aren’t future must-haves of an it-girl, but an intimately rare access to Miuccia’s various associations of a woman. This show is the most beautifully executed moment of the season, so far.