Village Life. Jacquemus AW19

March 5, 2019March 5, 2019 | Design & Culture by Ed

Simone Porte Jacquemus’ sun-drenched Frenchness is a phenomenal success on international scale – think big straw hats, over-sized baskets and draped shirtdresses ready for a Côte d’Azur adventures. Still, the designer doesn’t rest on laurels, and smartly took a slightly different direction this season. Not that he parted ways with his French girl – I doubt this will ever happen, since she’s the core of his brand. But he finally took her out of the beach. In a French village set-up, with faux fruit stores and all, Jacquemus sent a line-up of boldly colored looks that are actually ready for (not too) cold weathers. Coats in fuchsia, yellow and abstract checks; laid-back tailoring and shirting in rustic prints; knitted dresses. The Jacquemus girl wears heels, but isn’t afraid of knee-length rubber boots. Bags are the brand’s growing business, so there’s no wonder why we’ve got so many new additions. The double-bum-bag worn on the waist; the meme-worthy, super tiny handbag that might fit a few coins, a black card, a cigarette and maybe, who knows, a condom (sorry, that was my main thought when I saw them!); an enormously big shoulder bag that will definitely fit everything, even a hundred of the mini bags I mentioned two lines above. Jacquemus doesn’t take big risks, true, but he continues to amuse. Consistence with a spark of surprise is the key.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Knit Wonderland. Missoni AW19

March 5, 2019 | Design & Culture by Ed

Angela Missoni’s autumn-winter 2019 collection for her family brand was all about knitwear – which isn’t really a surprise, since we’re talking about Missoni, the ultimate knit kingdom. Cozy ponchos, V-neck dresses worn over turtlenecks, lurex-like pants in ocean blue, an ethnic robe coat worn with an orange hoodie… everything that makes winter dressing sound not that bad. Who wouldn’t want to layer up in these soft, fleecy garments? I also really loved the striped tights styled with matching outerwear. Bella Hadid’s look was just it.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Neat. Salvatore Ferragamo AW19

March 4, 2019March 4, 2019 | Design & Culture by Ed

Paul Andrew and Guillaume Meilland are a good duo for Salvatore Ferragamo. The first does womenswear, the latter menswear, but their visions are well coordinated and balanced for a brand that’s all about Italian luxury goods. In their second season, consistence and neatness is the key. Andrew’s approach is “dressing toe to head”. It all began from a dig in the brand’s rich archives. A shoe from 1942 (a multicolored patchwork suede wedge) informed the collection’s kaleidoscopic palette and the patchwork motif that ran through it. It’s a nice fun fact, but it doesn’t really reflect in the clothes that are brilliant, just as they are. A pin-striped deconstructed dress; a butter-y nappa leather jacket in cobalt blue; a rustical, plaid blanket skirt; sleeveless knit worn over a masculine shirt… I see lots of delightful daywear here. The appearance of all the gorgeous, mature model veterans – Liya Kebede, Maggie Rizer, Kirsty Hume, Georgina Grenville – and their appearance in these clothes made another statement: Ferragamo’s wardrobe is a real wardrobe.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

So Donatella. Versace AW19

March 4, 2019March 4, 2019 | Design & Culture by Ed

Mi-Mi-Bella
(I’m a rich bitch, I’m the upper class)
All of the day
(I’m the pearl to your oyster, I’m a babe)
I’m gonna smoke Marlboro Lights and drink Champagne
(I smoke Marlboro Reds and drink Champagne)
DONATELLA!

Who doesn’t want to be Donatella Versace, for even a day? This attitude, this aura! Like in Lady Gaga’s quite iconic song, this woman is pure charisma. So was Versace‘s autumn-winter 2019 collection, splashed in neon colours, filled with S&M details and lots, lots of lace, leopard fur (faux!) and bling. Shalom Harlow opened the show, Stephanie Seymour closed it, like in the days of Gianni. Donatella smartly mixes Versace’s archival codes with her own love for power dressing. And the t-shirt made in collaboration with Richard Avedon Foundation – feauturing Donatella herself photographed by the late master of image-making – is the show’s key message: this blond is the boss!

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Untamed Eclecticism. Gucci AW19

March 4, 2019March 4, 2019 | Design & Culture by Ed

Alessandro Michele‘s Gucci is like an endless rollercoaster – sometimes, you just love the craziness of the entire thing; sometimes, you’re near puking. This time, however, I felt the first. In a venue covered with more than 120,000 LED lightbulbs and a 100-meter long mirrored runway, a tribe of beautifully eccentric individuals made an appearance. Rich in tailoring, pattern and opulent decoration, many of the looks were worn with masks of all sorts. Spiked, coloured, one in the form a of an eagle, the masks represented showing and hiding who we are, and to protect the kindness and beauty inside. Fantastical shapes, faux fur accessories in the boldest shades and gold metal ear coverings inspired by the 24-karat gold work ‘Fashion Fiction #1’ from 1968 by artist Eduardo Costa were all here, matched and mismatched in true manner of Michele. Those elongated jackets, wide trousers, ornate robes, dresses with puffed sleeve (and whatever else you see here) are no longer for women or men specifically. Alessandro wants to create clothes for individuals, who no longer limit themselves through gender boundaries. He does so, with his eternal love for untamed eclecticism.