Contrasting Harmony. Area AW19

Area‘s autumn-winter 2019 was a bold, multi-faceted line-up of looks that can be, simply speaking, called ‘occasion-wear’. But then, why not look so fabulous on the daily? And make your outfit a joyous occasion itself? There was red houndstooth print used in slit dresses and over-sized pants; tie-dye on a leather skirt that was actually an apron; a killer orange jumpsuit; a puffa vest and a mini-dress in black & white, all covered in the brand’s logo; the signature two tone lamé, that looked like some sort of magical liquid dripping down the body. The designers, Beckett Fogg and Piotrek Panszczyk, clashed Dancehall style, 80s glitz and 60s Courrèges like no one else. The collection was like a huge image, or rather, a number of visions pressed into one runway collection. But the effect wasn’t overcharged – quite the opposite. It was flawless. All the colours, themes, prints, styles, eras. That was the aim: “it’s about these dualities: how can they live not in contrast but in harmony?” Their new season offering is the perfect answer.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Grown Up. Eckhaus Latta AW19

Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta go all grown up for autumn-winter 2019: earthy colour palette, mature tailoring, constructed silhouettes. Eckhaus Latta affiliates with raw edginess, but this season it felt like the designers wanted something a bit more grounded. Their Brooklyn presentation had pieces that you will drool for next season. A teddy bear jacket; parachute dress in bottle-green; loosely fitted blazers. But still, there were hints of the label’s distinctive, arty background, like the tops and belts made out of wooden car beads. The UGG collaboration on the boots felt very, very Eckhaus Latta too.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Organza Fantasy. Tomo Koizumi AW19

When you become a Marc Jacobs protegé, are allowed to present your collection in his Madison Avenue store, get Katie Grand as a stylist, Pat McGrath for the make-up, and Gwendoline Christie, Karen Elson, Rowan Blanchard and Bella Hadid walk your debut show, be sure you will be on everybody’s lips for the rest of New York fashion week. But, all this very helpful support is just the cherry on the cake, because Tomo Koizumi‘s fashion is a star in itself. Although I would be cautious with calling Koizumi’s autumn-winter 2019 a fantasy of Pierpaolo Piccioli’s Valentino heights, this outing really was a fantasy that is just what New York needs. In the crowd of post-Philo aesthetic and too-edgy styling, Tomo’s polyester organza pieces, kept in all the shades of rainbow, are a true fairy-tale. Capes, ball-skirts, gowns of different lengths – all looking like a candy-sweet armour. Where will this major debut take Koizumi and his distinct style? Time will show. But it’s worth mentioning that Jacobs should be praised for helping out a new talent with his great platform. Hope to see more of initiatives like this in the upcoming seasons.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Sustainable Reality. Collina Strada AW19

It’s the first time I’m writing about Hillary Taymour’s brand, Collina Strada. And I guess it’s not the last time you will hear about this New York-based brand here. I was tempted to browse through her show, when I saw one of her models carry a baby on shoulders in a very bold, yellow floral turtleneck styled with watercolour pants on Man Repeller’s Instagram stories. But that’s just a glimpse of Taymour’s joyous, tie-dyed, reality-imitating theme for autumn-winter 2019. The show started off  with a “mini TED Talk,” as Hillary referred to it, given by environmental activist and hip-hop artist Xiuhtezcatl Martinez. He spoke at length about protecting life and Mother Earth while models (and the baby!) came down the runway. Collina Strada’s designer used 75 percent deadstock fabric made into trousers and tops in psychedelic hand-painted prints and a daisy motif. In addition to those reused materials, Taymour also partnered with 4ocean to utilize beads the organization makes with recycled waste. These were used in straps of the dresses. What else suggested Collina Strada’s pursuit for sustainability? Making eco-ware cool. Refillable cups, lunch boxes and thermoses replaced totes and clutches. Yes!

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Intutive. Maryam Nassir Zadeh AW19

I love the first days of New York fashion week, because it’s the moment of the most daring, yet under-the-radar designers that do true wonders – without the presence of major venues, influencers, and all that stuff… Maryam Nassir Zadeh is definitely one of those designers. Although she’s beloved by her New York fandom of female professionals, she’s a designer who is far from (and, what’s most important, has no plans to be) glossy establishment. It’s a brand for women like Susan Cianciolo, Paloma Elsesser and Hailey Benton Gates – bold, diverse individuals with their own sense of style. Maryam’s clothes are, as the designer herself says, simple and intuitive. They never dress or invade you. But you’re free to experiment with them, the way you want, according to your mood. A fleece zip-up cinched with low-slung belt over a pleated skirt; beaded knit tucked in a pencil skirt; tie-dye harlequin top over a pair of cargo pants; blue leopard print coat and a delicate frock; zebra boots with a brown, leather overall. If you can’t really afford Maryam Nassir Zadeh, don’t be afraid to try the ways the designer presents the outfits. Her ‘hand-picked dressing’ is all about mixing, and spontaneity. No total looks. Bit of vintage, bit of edgy, bit of feminine: that’s the grab-and-go look of a New York woman whose wardrobe is consciously (or unconsciously) nurtured by Zadeh throughout the years.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki (featuring a Hilma Af Klint artwork).