Sweet Love. Lemaire AW15

March 5, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Sweet love. Pastels. Silent and sexy at the same time. Christophe Lemaire nailed it this season (as usual). The master of Parisian chic told us, how to look stylish with a bit of sex-appeal. Fluffy sweaters showing some nipples, wooden bags in the shape of female breasts, exposure of shoulders – and all layered up by chic capes and warm pencil skirts. If Lemaire’s AW15 would be a dessert, it would taste like macarons from Parisian Laduree patisserie. Or like a chocolate croissant with a cup of coffee. I am simply drooling over the styling, the models and the overall mood – sensual, eponymous and utterly simple. A definition of Parisian woman from Le Marais.

Modern Air. Coperni Femme AW15

March 4, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

What’s Coperni Femme? Whether or not you accept the conncetion of Copernicus to womenswear, this latest collection from Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant made a strong case for exploiting an idea of pure forms. A bit scientific, a bit cosmic (the name of the label isn’t lying), a bit feminine – Coperni Femme duo’s integration of circles were very literal (disks of leather, suede, and papery metal patched together with “topstitched” crosses). Even the shoes – with these circles! – talked geometry. Also, a lot of genuine ways of wearing the clothes appeared: a detachable ruffled cuff in blue could be “twisted around the wrist, extended up the sleeve, and affixed to the shoulder, or left to dangle like an architectural tail.” Genius.

In the meantime, as winners of ANDAM’s First Collections Prize and among the short list for the LVMH Prize, Meyer and Vaillant already gained the status of new era designers – they think through the future perspective. Although their AW15 clothes look simple at first sight, they are ultra-sophisticated and smart in the detail.

Brown Samurai. Marni AW15

March 1, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Consuelo Castiglioni went samurai this seaon, just like for SS15 – belted vests and sharp, Japanese silhouettes. But this time, Marni sees the world in brown and other warm, earthy colours. A lot of fur was used as application for pockets and stole; the skirts had this “not so perfect” attitude with threads projecting from the surface of wool-blended textile. Textiles. Consuelo mastered layering to perfection – the clothes look so real and casual, that you just start to dream of snowy December mornings. But, you know, the ones like in Milan. The last outfit worn by Julia Nobis, the Victorian blouse with turtleneck and embroidery is everything.

Italian Simple. Bottega Veneta AW15

February 28, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

When I first saw Tomas Maier’s AW15 for Bottega Veneta, I fell something positive. Although we’ve got polka dots there and there, the collection is kept in simple way – the silhouette is very graphical, but at the same time feminine. The 60’s and 70’s are revisited, but in modern, contemporary way. And what else is exciting about the entire collection, is this beautiful, Italian mood – Bottega Veneta’s woman for fall loves a cappuccino in the morning and enjoys a glass of red wine in the evening. She does everything in slow way, but with grace and elegance. She’s mysterious, but friendly. And she has days which are black & white, and days which are full of stripes and colour block!

I thought this might catch the constantly changing mood of Bottega Veneta woman…

Blush Beauty. No21 AW15

February 27, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Alessandro Dell’Acqua is called the modern-day Italian fashion genius. And I totally approve that statement. This guy knows, how to mix contemporary with opulent – a tweed pencil skirt worn with gold-patent jacket; olive green hoodie styled with hand-embroidered dress – those are just few examples of how Alessandro rolls in fashion. For AW15, the designer of No21 brought a lot of blush pink into the collection, which felt super lovely. The two snow-white looks were excellent, too – the embroidered flower appliqued coat is dreamy… and the tune of “Let’s Dance” by David Bowie perfectly fit the entire scene. Romantic, but with a sharp masculine contrast.