Amelie from Milan. Gucci AW15

February 26, 2015January 20, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

New day, new dawn. Alessandro Michele starts a new era at Gucci. Forget the hedonistic business woman from Tom Ford and Frida Gianini times. Rather than fancy yachts buyer and looking like a sex-bomb on a cocktail party at rich friend’s house, the woman of totally not-famous Alessandro Michele is a warm, poetry-loving girl who enjoys a walk in the forest. The ex-accessories designer of Gucci, Michele is in the business of ready-to-wear, and I’ve got really mixed thoughts about him.
First of all, the whole situation makes me think of Saint Laurent and Hedi Slimane – before, YSL had Stefano Pilati, who prefered sexy women of success. After a sudden change, Hedi Slimane, the ex-Dior Homme designer, came, and showed everybody his love to punk. I remember it like yesterday – everybody was disgusted with his scandalous AW13 which featured mohair cardigans, spiked boots and grungy, Zara-looking like babydoll dresses. And totally same thing happens at Gucci now. Frida Gianini, which made Gucci women feel very luxurious, is exchanged by Alessandro Michele. And this guy, which came nearly from nowhere, brings Amelie-like naive sheer dresses, fluffy fur babooschakas and Berets. Yes, it’s not punk, but it still feels defiant comparing to Gianini’s vision.
What can I say about the collection? The embroidery is magnificent. The shoes are good in their ugliness. The woman for AW15 makes me think of a vintage-loving person, which loves flea markets and her old granny fur coat. Although she likes showing her feminine side, she is not against androgynous looks. Rather than boasting with her GG logo, Michele’s girl sees eponymous luxury in her Tudor-esque rings.
It’s always hard to judge the debuting designer. In my opinion, we need to see more of Alessandro and what he can do for Gucci – but the first impression is not good or either bad – it’s truly confusing. This what we saw before at this heritage Italian house is a HUGE contrast to what the new days are going to be like. So, lets see what the future will bring.

Kisses From India. Stella Jean AW15

February 26, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Hello Milano! And hello beautiful, sunny Stella Jean which sends us kisses straight from India! At the beginning of February, I went to Milan to preview Stella’s AW15 – the embroidery, the prints, the colour combinations are just genius. And what’s interesting, thanks to mixing classical, Italian heritage to the Bollywood-inspired theme, the AW15 collection is not so… kitsch? There’s nothing to add or to subtract. Basically, the collection has a healthy amount of wearable pieces decorated with rather silent ornaments. The coats are gorgeous; the dresses are breath-taking. And these tweed voluminous skirts look so great with these ethno-patterned knits! We definitely need the warmth and cheer that Jean brings to fashion world every season.

Drama at it’s Best. Giles AW15

February 25, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Drama is the thing this season, that’s sure. After Marc Jacobs (the heavy Diana Vreeland boheme), Thomas Tait (elusive horror mood) and Thom Browne (a 19th century hospital vs. mafioso funeral), Giles Deacon shows us that a fashion show is not only a stiff presentation of clothes – it’s a performance. It’s a stage for actors – models – showing emotions through their walk and clothes. And in this statement, I would like to highlight Giles drama the most. The show was just extraordinary – Edie Campbell wore a latex Victorian blazer; Stella Lucia had a pink ribbon tied around her chiffon turtleneck – dress; Anna Cleveland, the star of this show, simply danced in a twirling organza gown. All girls had black lips and something ultra-vivid about them – maybe it’s Katie Grand’s styling? Or the old-fashioned beauty of British fashion shows? I can’t explain. But I am truly seduced by Giles for fall.

British Rose. Erdem AW15

February 24, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Beautifully embroidered dresses styled with horse-riding boots? Definitely yes. That’s a cool masculine touch in a very feminine area. And it really makes the whole look great and not so banal. This season, the British “Valentino-aspiring” designer, Erdem Moralioglu, brings British aristocrat’s daughter to the world of hunting and romance, giving her not only fancy floral dresses, but croco-patent boots. She shows a bit of nipples, she exposes her shoulders. The new character of Erdem’s woman is curious and intriguing… and she’s not scared of covering a magnificently embroidered skirt with a burgundy turtleneck.

Diana Vreeland. Marc Jacobs AW15

February 20, 2015February 20, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

“The eye has to travel” is a quote that always felt close to me. Who said it? Diana Vreeland, the queen of fashion from the 20th century. Fortunately, this quote is also important to Marc Jacobs – his AW15 collection definitely proves it. With a stormy temper, the models walked down the gloomy runway wearing Victorian gowns, Night Porter inspired sheer dresses, pilgrim shoes, art nouveau prints on flared skirts – you’ve got a feeling that you’re filtering a gorgeous Vogue edition which is guest edited by Marc. And Katie Grand, of course!

“She was a genius,” Jacobs said of the legendary Vogue editor, Diana, backstage. “She got the whole fashion thing: being decisive, being so excitable, and then being as passionate and dismissive about the very same thing the next day.” Jacobs read her Memos book while he was working on the Fall collection; the surprise is that he hasn’t made a muse of Vreeland before. “I felt like that’s what fashion is,” he continued, “that complete addiction, obsession, that I’ve-got-to-have-it need until I basically wouldn’t be caught dead in it.” The darkness changed into monochrome and bold red; the textiles were opulent and rich. As it’s the last show of New York Fashion Week, Marc Jacobs gave us a delicious dessert, leaving the best for the end.