Show Girl. Tom Ford SS15

September 18, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Tom Ford sexy ups his label with every season. But this was over the top! Tricky velvet suits, sheer tops, sequin flowers sticked to nipples, Gucci-esque white gowns… a real show-girl time. The soundtrack was a narcotized female version of “Addicted to Love” (the vocalist’s emphasis on the addiction, rather than the love), to which extraordinarily proportioned girls—rail thin, seven feet tall in their platform clogs—teetered down the mirrored catwalk, eyes laden with mascara, hair in teased-out shags. Tom’s SS15 isn’t really about the “sexy” office go-out, but it’s surely for women which feel sexy in their skin… and attitude.

Disruption. Thomas Tait SS15

September 17, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Brutalistic venue. Loud music. Nipples. Plastic. Stripes. Provocative. Georges Rousse. Minimal, but abstract. The star is born. Thomas Tait, the latest treasure of London showed a striking collection, under the wings of LVMH. And it’s totally something you didn’t see before (well, only if you saw the older collections by Tait). “I work so hard on the clothes inside and out, and most of the time it does boil down to a straight up runway image and people only get a fraction of the story.” Thomas Tait might me slightly similar to Gareth Pugh- also a Brit doing extravagant fashion. But what I love more about Tait is the fact that his clothes are wearable. The leather geometrical cut-out skirts, satin tops, transparency… who cares about the nipple? We live in the times, where being scared of your own nipple is funny. Transparent dresses were worn with metallic stilettos that morphed into nude tights, and ran alongside block coloured leather jackets with only one sleeve. I also loved the stripe episode! It was sexy but pretty “ugly”. Just like the colours, which were eye catchy, but for most very unattractive. This collection just says one thing: whatever. Whatever people say, Thomas Tait is Thomas Tait. And that counts for now. Love that vibe.

In The Garden. Erdem SS15

September 17, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Oh, what a show was that Erdem! It was breath-taking. On Moralioglu’s mood board, we had pictures of Katharine Hepburn in The African Queen, a proper woman “going bush,” unhinged by the jungle. That was the set today: dull, dark, slightly sinister. And that was also the scenario. Except that the woman Erdem had in mind was Victorian biologist and botanical artist Marianne North, who traveled the world and defined her profession to the point where there is a gallery dedicated to her at the Royal Botanic Gardens in Kew, outside London. With amazing, Valentino-like tapestery and embroideries, the plasters of palm leaves, roses and other plants simply grew out from the dresses. Erdem compared that to “trapping something wild.” And it was the wildness of nature, rather than its order, that truly absorbed him in this collection. And all of that magical beauty was styled with simple, boyish broques. And that’s the essential Erdem look. Feminine, but with a masculine touch. Art by Stephen Eichhorn.

New Woman. J.W. Anderson SS15

September 14, 2014September 14, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Wow. Jonathan Anderson really shocked everybody during his SS15 show. Like, really. And definitely the master of modern adrogeny takes us to a new level of femininity. Me, being slightly bored with Anderson’s minimal, sharp tunics and dresses, thic tres chic (yes, CHIC, at J.W. Anderson) brought something controversial and interesting. With a lot of leather and giving a leg, the whole collection was “hid” under huge, black hats… That was a really beautiful, lady-like moment. Also, the jewellery was good… Wooden buckles and puzzle necklaces are major. Although I am not always a fan of J.W. Anderson collection (like for example last season), I always feel something new will be presented… Is Jonathan the Phoebe Philo of London? Think so. By the way, happy birthday Jonathan Anderson! It’s your 30! And- well- you did yourself a really good present!

Relaxed Way. Barbara Casasola SS15

September 14, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Barabara Casasola is the hottest name coming from Brazil, making the start of London Fashion Week relaxed and sexy. For summer, the designer used shades of warm grey, khaki and orange, to put together a sensual line-up.The pencil skirts and tops were slim, but at the same time warn in a slouch way; the closing look, so the tank-top worn with pleated trousers (they too good), was also an easy way to show the warm feminine side. Casasola is on the boundary of simple dressing and provocative sensuality- and we really like it! We’ve got our eyes on this emerging designer!