Girl in Uniform. Marc Jacobs SS15

September 12, 2014September 12, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

As usually, making his show last during New York fashion week, Marc Jacobs does the biggest twist, showing whose the king of New York. Last season, Jacobs put clouds all around the huge hall. And now, for summer, we’ve got a… pink house. Yes! Was it a psychedelic vision of daily routine? Or something random? Or maybe something connected to peace? That would tell us what the big military trend do at the show! Khaki bomb dresses, sweatpants, huge pockets, backpacks (which are so Prada inspired!) and the universal black wigs of the models, which made the viewer concentrate on clothing. But all that cold atmosphere was made slightly sweet, with those little flowers painted on the over-sized tops. As usually, Marc Jacobs shows us something unusual (even the fact that he came back to the military trend means SOMETHING) and philosophical. And that was pretty it, if talking of NYFW, folks!

Python Preppy. Proenza Schouler SS15

September 12, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Aah, I am so in love with summer’s Proenza Schouler! It’s a total, total yum. Fringes! Python! Boxy jackets! The New Yorker spirit! With super strong colours like blue, orange and red, Jack and Lazaro overhelmed themselves. Totally. “Our version of American sportswear,” Hernandez said. Of course, that’s only the half of it. The designers may have started out with basic building blocks, but that’s not where their experiments ended up. Proenza’s parkas were made from laser-cut and color-blocked leather; polos were hand-knit, with leather panels inset across the chest. Want a T-shirt? Theirs were leather with crocheted seams. As for the leather pants, one leg was a different color than the other. The collection is simply a perfect balance- nothing to add, nothing to subtract. My favourites are the white coat, the fringe gowns (aah, they are so beautiful), the orange boxy jacket and the hand-cut sweatshirt. Really major.

Punk. Rodarte SS15

September 11, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Kate and Laura Mulleavy came back to their extraordinary roots, where punk and spirit plays a role! For Summer, the sisters did a major work. Their concept? Bring everything, that Rodarte woman is made of. Embroidery. Serenity. Punk. Piercing? Yes. The metallic half circles were glued to model’s eyebrows, to make a big statement in NYFW’s beauty. If talking of the clothes, we had every Rodarte girl- from the Harley Davidson gang, up to a sea siren and the downton NY babe. I am simply stunned with all of that! It simply takes all the words away. Simply see those Lea Colombo photographs from backstage.

Sanctuary. The Row SS15

September 10, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

The Row by the Olsen sisters is usually my favourite. But this time, it’s even more than favourite. It’s holy. Presented in a silent, brick loft with wooden floors in SoHO, the models started to emerge in a slow, calm way. Pouring through skylights, the morning sun glinted off the gold basket weave of a loosely tied coat, and shimmered on an organza top that looked as if it might’ve been dipped in tea or sepia-dyed. These were angels? Close. The clothes made from raw silk, crisp cotton, woven tabard finished with fringe… not many New York labels concentrate so much on detailing.

The caftans, peplums, over-sized coats, the robe dresses… it all felt serene, noting the whole collection was kept in gold, creme. brown, black and white colour. Although the fabrics and clothes may sound splendorous, they weren’t even a bit seductive. They were elusive, and simply, minimally, beautiful. Plus, I would love to see these pieces worn on a summer escape- they are loose (but not slouchy), chic (but not elegant). And these wonderful sandals/flats make us drool… this simply is the strongest collection to date.

Sexy. Altuzarra SS15

September 8, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Well, sexy isn’t nothing new at Altuzarra’s runway. The unbottoned shirt with a pencil skirts is the signature of Joseph Altuzarra. But this summer, the designer went a little bit further, if talking of women’s appeal. We had some seriously beautiful dresses here, with a cute pink gingham. Then, we had some pencil skirt evetion. The next big thing was the leather- Joseph made it super seductive, placing it within the transparent dresses and blouses. We also so a lot of bras and sexy v-cuts. And at last, the Emilio Pucci-like hand-painted gowns, which felt very gypsy spirited. In my opinion, Altuzarra did a piece of good work! For the first time since three seasons I feel something new, something created truly by Joseph. It’s not like something. It’s feminine, sexy… it’s the real Altuzarra woman!