You know, there are those certain looks that stuck in your head for longer than one season. Miuccia Prada‘s genius autumn-winter 2008 collection, which was a subversive take on a Sunday-at-church look (I was drooling over it here), is filled with lace pieces and ruffled heels that will never, ever, become outdated. Look 22 is particularly impressive, from the top to the bottom. Every detail counts. Vlada Roslyakova wore a beige turtleneck with a kind of mini-collar, layered under a soft, same-colour knit. The knee-lenght skirt, kept in a pale shade, looked fantastic, styled with gold pumps and a matching, cute ruffle bag. If you ask me, what’s a Prada look, then I will show you this picture. 101% sure.
A similar look… Equipment sand cashmere knit, Jil Sander beige knit, Tom Ford cashmere and silk turtleneck, Facetasmt satin skirt & Valentino ‘Mary Janes’ shoes.
Beauty corner! Charlotte Tilbury ‘Kate Moss’ Lipstick, Charlotte Tilbury ‘Eyes to Mesmerise Kit’ & Byredo ‘Mojave Ghost’ eau de parfum .
Ryan Roche is New York’s go-to designer in case of anything connected to timeless, luxurious knitwear. Throughout the few last seasons, she introduced us to the most fleecy, cashmere cardigans and sweaters ever. Also, she’s the modern-day queen of beige – in fact, a majority of her looks are kept in different shades of this warm, underrated colour. Yes, that sounds like a strong foundation for a brand to stay in its comfort zone. But Roche won’t rest on her laurels anytime soon.
Spring-summer 2017 was Ryan’s first runway show, and that let her present a visual experience for he guests. Julian MacKay, a soloist with the Mikhailovsky ballet, travelled from St. Petersburg to stage a dancing performance among the designers’ models dressed in knitted skirts and evening wear. The lightness of those knits is comparable to MacKay’s grace. The clothes were so different comparing to the last seasons, and that felt really exciting about Roche’s outing. Margiela-like, leg-of-mutton sleeves came with white blazers; romantic lace appeared in slip-tops and dreamy, maxi dresses. Cashmere scarves and shawls were worn the Marlene Dietrich way – so soigné! With the help of a new Italian factory, Ryan created her version of a suit – high-waisted trousers cinched at the waist and a semi-cardigan with light knit cables. Seeing Roche on new ground is one of my favourite moments of this New York Fashion Week so far.
I think that 2014 is the year of American women’s fashion. And the best example of that is Rachel Comey. She does clothing for American woman. So, for every woman. In her pre-fall 2015 collection, we can find denim culottes (!), artsy prints (!!) and, oh yes, fluffy clogs (!!!). Kept in mostly in beige, but with accents of yellow and red, the presentation felt as yum as these clogs. They are phenomenal. Just like the mid-lenghts of all those skirts. With belted waist, a handy bag and a lovely evening sequin dress, the Comey woman keeps in strong and very, very New York-ish.
Publication: i-D Magazine Pre Fall 2014
Model: Alena Blohm, Alexandra Elizabeth, Emma Stern, Lina Berg, Hana Jirickova, Victoria Tuaz, Franziska Frank, Kate Grigorieva, Megan Williams, Kerri-Lee Miller, Valeriya Plandina
Photographer: Daniel Jackson
Fashion Editor: Alastair McKimm
Beige. Beige. Beige. And then a little drop of yellow; little splash of red; and the whole red / yellow / orange PVC sweatshirts appeared. That was possibly the most dynamic change of action during the whole Milan Men Fashion Week! Calvin Klein summer was a sportish collection full of casual shorts, trousers (I love the cuts) and tank tops, that went through reincarnation of their colour. “Transparency is very important to move ahead with straightforwardness and simplicity” said Italo Zucchelli, the designer. I just want to add it reminded me of Miu Miu for AW14 (these vinyl!)…
Helmut Lang’s show began innocently enough, his trademark sleek trousers, body-conscious tops and functional overcoats redone for Spring in nubby silk-knit burlap. The looks were pure Helmut: functional, urban and modern. But then, gradually, a wave of sexual innuendo began to escalate. A tape-like strap was strategically placed on a semitransparent top; a bikini bottom was paired with a deep-plunging tank. Finally, a procession of crisscrossed, bondage-inspired dresses and tops whizzed through the audience. Lang, the designer who pioneered androgynous, uniform dressing, had designed a brilliant collection that could go from a Tribeca loft cocktail party to an alleyway midnight rendezvous west of Times Square.
The new resort 2015 for Christopher Bailey meant aquarelle prints and sleek skirts. Kept all in comfortable beige and strokes of relaxing blue, the collection of this London-based luxury brand felt just perfect for Spring. As we know from Dior, the season is going to be based on fragility and art. I loved the unexpected stylings of slim blouses verses a white sequined midi skirt… and of course the much in need camel coat with a big amount of buttons. Very 40’s and very wearable!
Hello, hello- camel is on the fashion horizon! The commonly beige coat that is usually said to be the most boring piece, is again trendy! No wonder why- Carine, Kim, Garance are all in love with it. Just like Max Mara, that again makes it on top this season. Style yours with sneakers, and get the Parisian chic look!
Kim Kardashian and Garance Dore
Christian Louboutin, the red sole master did something that got whole Paris breath taken away. The new edition of The Nude is a serie of five leather stilettos with the famous red sole in all colours of skin. And as I undersatnd, NUDE is the new black from mow on! The colours are from lightest to darkest skin colours, and definitely will look sexy on every leg… And certainly it will be a best-seller in all Louboutin stores, causing lines and traffic jams! (Like everyday in Paris!)