You know, there are those certain looks that stuck in your head for longer than one season. Miuccia Prada‘s genius autumn-winter 2008 collection, which was a subversive take on a Sunday-at-church look (I was drooling over it here), is filled with lace pieces and ruffled heels that will never, ever, become outdated. Look 22 is particularly impressive, from the top to the bottom. Every detail counts. Vlada Roslyakova wore a beige turtleneck with a kind of mini-collar, layered under a soft, same-colour knit. The knee-lenght skirt, kept in a pale shade, looked fantastic, styled with gold pumps and a matching, cute ruffle bag. If you ask me, what’s a Prada look, then I will show you this picture. 101% sure.
A similar look… Equipment sand cashmere knit, Jil Sander beige knit, Tom Ford cashmere and silk turtleneck, Facetasmt satin skirt & Valentino ‘Mary Janes’ shoes.
Beauty corner! Charlotte Tilbury ‘Kate Moss’ Lipstick, Charlotte Tilbury ‘Eyes to Mesmerise Kit’ & Byredo ‘Mojave Ghost’ eau de parfum .
Ryan Roche is New York’s go-to designer in case of anything connected to timeless, luxurious knitwear. Throughout the few last seasons, she introduced us to the most fleecy, cashmere cardigans and sweaters ever. Also, she’s the modern-day queen of beige – in fact, a majority of her looks are kept in different shades of this warm, underrated colour. Yes, that sounds like a strong foundation for a brand to stay in its comfort zone. But Roche won’t rest on her laurels anytime soon.
Spring-summer 2017 was Ryan’s first runway show, and that let her present a visual experience for he guests. Julian MacKay, a soloist with the Mikhailovsky ballet, travelled from St. Petersburg to stage a dancing performance among the designers’ models dressed in knitted skirts and evening wear. The lightness of those knits is comparable to MacKay’s grace. The clothes were so different comparing to the last seasons, and that felt really exciting about Roche’s outing. Margiela-like, leg-of-mutton sleeves came with white blazers; romantic lace appeared in slip-tops and dreamy, maxi dresses. Cashmere scarves and shawls were worn the Marlene Dietrich way – so soigné! With the help of a new Italian factory, Ryan created her version of a suit – high-waisted trousers cinched at the waist and a semi-cardigan with light knit cables. Seeing Roche on new ground is one of my favourite moments of this New York Fashion Week so far.
I think that 2014 is the year of American women’s fashion. And the best example of that is Rachel Comey. She does clothing for American woman. So, for every woman. In her pre-fall 2015 collection, we can find denim culottes (!), artsy prints (!!) and, oh yes, fluffy clogs (!!!). Kept in mostly in beige, but with accents of yellow and red, the presentation felt as yum as these clogs. They are phenomenal. Just like the mid-lenghts of all those skirts. With belted waist, a handy bag and a lovely evening sequin dress, the Comey woman keeps in strong and very, very New York-ish.
Publication: i-D Magazine Pre Fall 2014
Model: Alena Blohm, Alexandra Elizabeth, Emma Stern, Lina Berg, Hana Jirickova, Victoria Tuaz, Franziska Frank, Kate Grigorieva, Megan Williams, Kerri-Lee Miller, Valeriya Plandina
Photographer: Daniel Jackson
Fashion Editor: Alastair McKimm