Men’s. Hybrid. Calvin Klein SS15

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Beige. Beige. Beige. And then a little drop of yellow; little splash of red; and the whole red / yellow / orange PVC sweatshirts appeared. That was possibly the most dynamic change of action during the whole Milan Men Fashion Week! Calvin Klein summer was a sportish collection full of casual shorts, trousers (I love the cuts) and tank tops, that went through reincarnation of their colour. “Transparency is very important to move ahead with straightforwardness and simplicity” said Italo Zucchelli, the designer. I just want to add it reminded me of Miu Miu for AW14 (these vinyl!)…

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#TBT: Helmut Lang SS01

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Helmut Lang’s show began innocently enough, his trademark sleek trousers, body-conscious tops and functional overcoats redone for Spring in nubby silk-knit burlap. The looks were pure Helmut: functional, urban and modern. But then, gradually, a wave of sexual innuendo began to escalate. A tape-like strap was strategically placed on a semitransparent top; a bikini bottom was paired with a deep-plunging tank. Finally, a procession of crisscrossed, bondage-inspired dresses and tops whizzed through the audience. Lang, the designer who pioneered androgynous, uniform dressing, had designed a brilliant collection that could go from a Tribeca loft cocktail party to an alleyway midnight rendezvous west of Times Square. Slide2

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Substantial. Burberry Resort’15

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The new resort 2015 for Christopher Bailey meant aquarelle prints and sleek skirts. Kept all in comfortable beige and strokes of relaxing blue, the collection of this London-based luxury brand felt just perfect for Spring. As we know from Dior, the season is going to be based on fragility and art. I loved the unexpected stylings of slim blouses verses a white sequined midi skirt… and of course the much in need camel coat with a big amount of buttons. Very 40’s and very wearable!

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Camel Runaway

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Hello, hello- camel is on the fashion horizon! The commonly beige coat that is usually said to be the most boring piece, is again trendy! No wonder why- Carine, Kim, Garance are all in love with it. Just like Max Mara, that again makes it on top this season. Style yours with sneakers, and get the Parisian chic look!

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Carine Roitfeld

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