Burberry
Bailey’s Pride. Burberry SS18
So, what to expect from a designer’s final collection, especially after a 17 year-long tenure as a creative director and the person in charge for the brand’s business side? Well, pretty much anything. Christopher Bailey‘s last collection at Burberry was meant to be a blast. And there really are the reasons to praise the designer this season. “My final collection here at Burberry is dedicated to – and in support of – some of the best and brightest organisations supporting LGBTQ+ youth around the world. There has never been a more important time to say that in our diversity lies our strength, and our creativity.” Pride and optimism was reflected in everything, from the puffas to sweatshirts covered in raibow. The Rainbow check, the latest iteration of Burberry’s most iconic symbol and designed as part of Christopher’s dedication of his last collection to LGBTQ+ communities, featured throughout the show. It was nice seeing that a brand like Burberry, so established and all, goes for an important matter!
Still, I’m on fence with this collection. The capsule of reissued archive pieces from the 1980s and 1990s rereleased felt new to Burberry, but the idea is quite pinched from Gucci’s current bootleg obsession. In overall, the collection was more Alessandro Michele, than Christopher Bailey. There were some clear signs of Demna Gvasalia and Phoebe Philo inspired tricks there and there – like over-sized, Vetements-y hoodies or Céline-ish lace dresses and plastic bags. In other words, I think the label tried hard this season to be relevant and look 2018. Nevertheless, Bailey had his big, last word to say with the collection. Where will we see him next? The time will tell.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
What’s Hot (15.10.17)
Chavs and Checks. Burberry AW17
There’s a new, very common tendency in fashion for speeding up the sales. While in the past, that was done by launching a new perfume, today, it’s making the clothes feel Vetements (with some smaller or bigger alternations). In case of Burberry, Christopher Bailey‘s strategy was to pin-up that popularly over-sized, ‘I don’t care how I look’ style to the brand’s biggest heritage – the Burberry check – that lately wasn’t a top-seller. The bootleg power has its impact, after all, and as the current consumer fancies looking cheap, that’s a very, very good shot.
Following the successful recipe of many brands, Bailey invited the ‘cool pack’ to collaborate in the new season. So we’ve got Gosha Rubchinskiy, who has already presented a glimpse of the Burberry collab in his recent menswear collection that took place last June in Saint Petersburg. The Russian photographer, known for capturing the post-Soviet skate youth and rave scene, also contributed to Burberry’s photography exhibition, ‘Here We Are‘, curated by Alasdair McLellan. But back to the clothes: not that the overall collection was bad. Quite opposite – it was one of the best Burberry collections in a while. Lots of heavy knitwear worn over sheer dresses (lovely, rustical mood of Scottish highlands); PVC jackets in pastel pink; and of course, checks covering everything from coats to the ‘chav’ inspired caps. The effect? Sure, I took out my well-forgotten, beige scarf for a walk. Looked at it with a ‘fresh’ eye. But if taking a closer look at that Gosha-coolness of this collection, Burberry’s new-season directions says as follows: ‘desperate’.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Design & Culture by Ed 