You Do You. Tom Ford SS18

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Wherever I look, I see a long feature about the importance and potential of Tom Ford. Business of Fashion did one recently. New York Mag had it in August, exclusively sharing bits on the designer’s work behind the spring-summer 2018 collection. All of the magazines praise Tom Ford for his work at Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent, for his venture in the film industry (like Nocturnal Animals) and most of all, his own brand with commercially succesful beauty line, men’s ready-to-wear and growing womenswear. Is Tom Ford’s PR working night and day, lately? Or maybe just in the year of 2017 the fashion industry decided to agree on one thing – Tom Ford is boss. And his fashion, season-to-season, wherever he designs, says you do you. Really, no else does Tom Ford as well as, gasp, Tom Ford.

There were rumours that Ford is planning to do a loud 90s revival – and that was certainly true. Backless jumpsuits, shoulder pads in denim, killer puchsia and lots of bling-bling were present, giving New York fashion week a glamorous kick-off. Don’t think it was nostalgic, as nostalgia in fashion often ends looking dusty and pretentious. That was a sleek line-up of ultra-glossy and great-body-demanding clothes, with no deeper meanings. That’s a collection that you look at with a relaxed, optimist eye at the beginning of the fashion month triathlon. Surely not like at a show of the last few days that you would confuse with Balmain and rather skip. But still, Ford is in a very, very good form, and what’s more, on his own terms.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Roitfeld’s Place

zdjęcie 1Christian Restoin knew that he and his wife, Carine, would buy their apartment even before they saw it. “When I spotted the building, I felt it was for us” he recalls. “The localisation and the view are just perfect.” Carine Roitfeld is the ex editor-in-chief of Vogue Paris and the owner of CR Fashion Book while Restoin is the former owner of Equipment. As for the flat, it hadn’t been touched since the 60’s. To get into the shape, they called up the English architect David Chipperfield. The idea was to create something pure, without touching the historical features which give the flat its spirit. The fireplaces and mouldings remained firmly in place and hand-picked selection of design classics (like Mies Van Der Rohe metal cable chairs) installed. The apartment seems to be simple, but a lot of heart was taken into it… in other words, it’s purely parisienne, and possibly that was the main aim.

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Hello, Seafarer!

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“On August 14, 1945 Alfred Eisenstaedt photographed an American sailor kissing a woman in a white dress in Times Square. That sailor wore Seafarer trousers, otherwise known as the first bell-bottom pants, created by Tony Anzalone who had produced the official sailor’s trousers for the US Navy since 1900. Ever since that moment was captured, the Brooklyn-based blue jeans have been the source of many more iconic moments throughout history—from the wide leg versions becoming a symbol of ’60s rebellion to being worn by the likes of Jane Birkin and Brigitte Bardot.” Seafarers always made disco come to my mind- maybe the bell length? But now, after I saw Carine Roitfeld wearing them with a chic Givenchy jacket or a Prada blouse, I feel that seafarers are again coming back… not so shamefully. And, by the way, Colette is filled with seafarer trousers. Surely these nautical trousers comeback for the next season (like the marine stripes). But in case of seafarers, we’ve got a little problem- like culottes- they won’t fit everybody. Although they look awesome on CR and archival photographs of Jane Birkin!

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